Monthly Archives: November 2016

audemars piguet roya oak frosted white gold

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK FROSTED GOLD

THE FLASH OF A STAR

The Vallée de Joux watchmaker went and captured light to dress the women’s version of his Royal Oak, whose 40th anniversary will be celebrated at the end of this year.

1972 is the year that a watchmaking icon designed by Gérald Genta (19931-2011), considered by many as the greatest watchmaking designer of all time, was born: the Royal Oak model for Audemars Piguet. With powerful lines, a strong identity and a case topped with an octagonal screwdown bezel, the watch is instantly recognisable and is rapidly becoming a ­must-have timepiece. Four years after this fabulous creation, Jacqueline Dimier, recently employed by Audemars Piguet, was charged with taking another look at this very masculine object to make it a timepiece for women. She played with the proportions, and lengthened and refined its silhouette. The boys’ toy became a girls’ toy, and then, 40 years later, a stars’ toy. So this young forty-year-old passed into the hands of creative jeweller Carolina Bucci, who clothed her in light, sparkling like diamonds or stardust. Her name sounds like something from a fairy-tale: Royal Oak Frosted Gold – this novelty is clothed in rose or white gold, and offered in two sizes; 37 or 33mm in diameter.

audemars piguet roya oak frosted white gold

It is the shimmering sparkle of the Royal Oak Frosted Gold case that catches the eye, the bezel with its 8 hexagonal screws and the links that make up its bracelet. This is achieved through a “Florentine” technique, which consists of hammering the metal delicately and meticulously using a tool with a diamond point to make minute hollows – a sort of precious frost-effect. The sides of the bezel are polished, whereas the body and the outside surfaces of the links have a brushed surface.

Faithfully following its predecessors, the silvery, opaline face of the Royal Oak Frosted Gold is marked with the famous chequerboard motif called “Grande Tapisserie”, with applied hour markers and Royal Oak hands in gold. The date is displayed simply at the 3 o’clock position.

The self-winding mechanical 3120 calibre is housed in the 37mm-diameter case. It provides the time-keeping and calendar functions, with a 60-hour power reserve. You can admire the movement of the oscillating golden weight through the sapphire crystal back of the watch.

The 33mm-diameter version holds a quartz movement, the 2713 calibre, which moves the hour and minute hands and displays the date, at the 3 o’clock position.

Price: 37,500 CHF (ø33, rose gold) – 42,500 CHF (ø33, white gold) – 46,500 CHF (ø37, rose gold) – 51,500 CHF (ø37, white gold)

By Sharmila Bertin

tudor pelagos lhd closeup

TUDOR – PELAGOS LHD

THE DIVE WATCH PRODUCED FOR LEFT-HANDERS

The Red Shield brand offers a version of its Pelagos dive watch specially developed for wearing on the right wrist.

If, like most of us, you are in the habit of wearing your watch on your left wrist, with the crown facing your hand, how would you feel if you decided to wear it on the right wrist? Awkward, no doubt, or even uncomfortable, like left-handers and many right-handers who like to wear their watch on their right wrist. Thirty-five years after producing a dive watch for left-handers in 1981 at the request of the Marine nationale française (French Navy), Tudor presents the Pelagos LHD model. LHD stands for Left Hand Drive, and in fact, the screwdown winder crown usually found at the 3 o’clock position on the body is positioned at the 9 o’clock position on the case of the Pelagos LHD.

It measures 42mm in diameter, and is made of titanium, a lightweight metal which is rustproof (essential for a dive watch often immersed in salt seawater), and is watertight to a depth of 500 metres. The steel back of the watch has Arabic numerals corresponding to the production number, since the Pelagos LHD is numbered series. A titanium unidirectional rotating bezel covers the case, with a black ceramic ring on which is written in beige the dive scale graduated from 0 to 60 minutes. An automatic helium valve placed at the 3 o’clock position completes the “left-handed” version of this tool watch.

tudor pelagos lhd closeup

The matt grey armure watch holds a self-winding mechanical movement designed and produced by Tudor, MT 5612 calibre. This powerful heart, beating at 4Hz (ie 28,800 vibrations per hour) is a COSC-certified chronometer and has a big power reserve of 70 hours. It marks the date as well as the time.

On the sand-blasted black dial, the indicators have the typical configuration of Pelagos watches: the hours are alternately marked by geometric shapes and “snowflake” hands, all coated with a luminescent beige substance. An open display at the 3 o’clock position shows the date on an ivory background, displayed alternately in red (even dates) and black (uneven dates). This system of colour nicknamed “roulette” by the aficionados of the brand made its first appearance on a Tudor model dating from 1969.

Last but not least, the watch is attached to the right wrist using a bracelet with titanium links ending in a steel buckle with a security clasp. A second strap in black rubber fastened with a pin buckle is also supplied with this Pelagos LHD.

Price: 4,200 CHF

By Sharmila Bertin

roger dubuis quatuor cobalt micro melt closeup

ROGER DUBUIS – QUATUOR COBALT MICROMELT®

HOWLING METAL

The Meyrin-based manufacturer unveils three pieces scheduled for the SIHH 2017, including a gravity-defying watch adorned with a rare alloy.

Daring to be avant-garde may seem simple. But to show audacity, to be slightly impudent and at ease with your original and even rebellious side is not within everyone’s reach. Yet, Roger Dubuis excels in the exercise. True to its reputation as something of a troublemaker in the prestige watch-making sector, the brand based in Meyrin, Switzerland, has produced another surprise with its new Quatuor Cobalt MicroMelt® model, available in a limited edition of 8 pieces.

roger dubuis quatuor cobalt micro melt closeup

panerai luminor due 3 days closeup

PANERAI – LUMINOR DUE 3 DAYS (PAM00676 PAM00677)

A subtle makeover

Panerai has a flair for designing contemporary watches with a vintage look. The brand has delved back into its iconic Luminor collection to bring us two new models.

Officine Panerai brings Italian style and Swiss expertise together. The brand makes its own P.9000, P.9001 and P.9002 movements and is highly sought-after among watch enthusiasts.

Panerai’s Luminor Due 3 Days collection treats its fans to a new take on its signature Luminor. Panerai has remained true to the original model’s design but given it modern functions with a slimmer case.

The Luminor Due 3 Days case design is inspired by the 1950s and a model made for the Italian Navy between the 1930s and 50s. It has all the Luminor’s signature features such as the reliable cushion-shape case, large dial rimmed by a slim bezel, integrated lugs and the bridge system that keeps the crown waterproof with a lever protecting it from shocks.

panerai luminor due 3 days closeup

The 42mm Luminor Due 3 Days case is just 10.5mm thick making it the slimmest Luminor case ever. It comes in stainless steel (PAM00676) or stylish polished rose gold (PAM00677).

Sapphire crystal protects the traditional low-key Panerai dial adorned with baton-shaped markers and a small seconds counter at 9. The dial’s sandwich structure (black on steel and anthracite grey on gold) makes the time easy to read and highlighted by the sunburst satin finish.

You can watch the manual wind P.1000 calibre through the Luminor Due 3 Days’s transparent case back. This is the first time the large satin-finish bridge protecting half the calibre’s surface has been openworked to reveal the movement’s parts and two barrels fuelling the 3-day power reserve.

The balance wheel in both pieces (28,800 vph) is held in place by a double-support bridge providing improved safety and stability. The movement also features a system which stops the balance wheel and resets the seconds hand when setting the time so the watch is perfectly in sync with a reference signal.

The steel (PAM00676) Luminor Due 3 Days comes with a black alligator strap and the rose gold version (PAM00677) comes with a pale blue alligator strap. Both are waterproof to depths of 30m.

Price: 7,600 CHF (PAM00676) – 20,700 CHF (PAM00677)

By Inès Aloui

LONGINES – AVIGATION WATCH TYPE A-7 1935

Tribute to 1930s aviation

The new Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 harks back to Longines’ classic models. The contemporary yet retro piece stands out for its dial angled at 40°.

Swiss brand Longines was founded in 1832 and is best known for its many sporting collaborations and sports watches. For example, Longines timed the first ever modern Olympics in Athens in 1896. The brand is rooted in sports and hasn’t stopped exploring timing over the years e.g. launching an automatic timing system in 1912 that was all the rage. Longines has set the benchmark in the most famous sporting competitions and lent its name to a variety of races and events. Its values of style and classicism ooze from its slogan: “Elegance is an attitude.”

longines avigation watch type a closeup

Longines takes us back in time with its new Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935, to the 1930s to be exact. The 41mm steel model stands out for its dial angled at 40°which enabled pilots to see the display without having to let go of their aircraft’s controls. The model was also commissioned by the US army in 1935. The polished white lacquer dial on the Avigation Watch Type A-7 1935 is seriously retro with oversize honey-coloured Arabic numerals and blue pear-shape hands. The monopusher chronograph has a central seconds hand, 30 minute counter at 12 and date display at 6. The watch is covered by anti-glare sapphire crystal and is waterproof to depths of 30m.

When Longines decided to restore a classic to its former glory, it held onto the functional side it had for the army e.g. the notched crown was designed so it was easy to handle even in gloves. The timepiece has a self-winding ETA L788.2 calibre with a monopusher and column wheel chronograph mechanism and 54-hour power reserve. The movement has been especially designed for Longines and controls the chronograph’s various functions. All you have to do to start, stop or reset the watch is press the button built into the notched crown. A brown alligator strap with a pin buckle secures the watch to your wrist.

Price: 3,500 USD

By Inès Aloui

bell ross rose rold closeup

BELL ROSS – BRS ROSE GOLD

Comfortable in any situation

The Parisian brand is famous for its watches worn by serious professionals and is spicing things up with a unisex model to suit any look. The Bell & Ross BRS Rose Gold puts a chic and refined spin on the original timepiece.

Bell & Ross was founded in 1992 and started out making watches for people working in extreme conditions. The brand’s first clients were the UN and NATO. The watchmaker has held onto the sporty design from this period as you can see in most of the models.

Bell & Ross holds its values dear to its heart: efficiency and reliability. To make reliable timepieces, a Bell & Ross watch has to have several features such as resistance to water and temperatures, an accurate movement and clear visual displays. Professional divers were treated to their own model in 1997 based on these criteria: the Hydromax can reach depths of 11,000m and contains hydraulic liquid to counteract the effects of pressure. A worthy feat of technology.

bell ross rose rold closeup

The brand decided to break away from its sporty image and designed one of the first models not to have a “tool watch” feel: 2008’s BRS watch. The BRS was given a 39mm gold case (rose or white gold) and a self-winding mechanical calibre with the small seconds at 6 from the very start. It has since been rolled out in a range of models with different materials and sometimes quartz movements, namely for the ladies’ watches.

This BRS Rose Gold has nailed elegance with its 39mm rose gold case that’s waterproof to depths of 100m. No matter whether you’re wearing something smart or casual, it suits any outfit to a tee. The 2016 version is similar to the original model but with one sizable difference: the central seconds feature gives it a classy and sophisticated feel as opposed to the brand’s more “virile” models.

Another new addition is that the original leaf-shape hands have been replaced by more contemporary, gold, skeleton hands filled with Superluminova and the date display lies between 4 and 5.

The black alligator strap showcases the rose gold and classic style of this BR Rose Gold.

Price: 12,900 EUR or 13,500 CHF

Par Inès Aloui

bulgari serpenti spiga white

BVLGARI – SERPENTI SPIGA

The snake bites back at Bvlgari!

The signature Serpenti in Bvlgari’s ladies collections comes in two new black or white ceramic models.

Bvlgari only began exploring watchmaking in the latter half of the 20th century after over 50 years in jewellery. The Italian brand unveiled the Serpenti collection to bring watches and jewels together in one of its first timepieces. The range hasn’t stopped growing since the 1940s with a range of models and Bvlgari’s signature snake embodies the brand’s premium vision. This time the iconic model comes in black or white ceramic.

bulgari serpenti spiga white

The new Serpenti Spiga glitters with rose gold and diamonds. Its curvy 35mm case has a rose gold bezel paved with brilliant-cut diamonds whilst the rose gold crown has a ceramic cabochon (black or white depending on the model). The black or white lacquer dial brings a touch of glamour to the watch. The Tubogas ceramic strap brings to mind a rippling snake’s movement, is waterproof to depths of 30m and features two rose gold details.

Serpenti Spiga is a technical challenge for the Italian brand. Making a flexible and articulated Tubogas strap in ceramic is no mean feat. Bvlgari has shaken up classic watchmaking values in this watch and injected it with a modern and sensual soul. The new ultra-feminine watch’s powers of seduction start with how soft the ceramic feels on the skin. The snake is modern and powerful. The bold yet elegant Serpenti Spiga oozes rock chic and flies in the face of classic watches.

Price: 9,950 CHF

By Inès Aloui

hautlence colette labyrinth closeup

HAUTLENCE – PLAYGROUND LABYRINTH LIMITED EDITION BY COLETTE

Hautlence heads to Colette

Following the success of its Playground collection and the first model in the range, the Labyrinth, Hautlence has designed an exclusive new series for Colette. To celebrate, the Playground Labyrinth Limited Edition By Colette is adorned in the Parisian store’s signature black and blue.

Hautlence calls to our inner child with the legendary maze game. Who didn’t love rolling the ball around these little plastic mazes? It drove us up the wall too! But the Playground Labyrinth Limited Edition By Colette isn’t really a watch…

Its black titanium dial with diamond corners doesn’t tell the time. The crown activates a “mechanical lift” that puts the blue steel ball back into the maze using a system of cams that you can see through the transparent back. The rectangular steel case (37×43.5mm) is reminiscent of watches by the brand whose name is an anagram of Neuchâtel.

hautlence colette labyrinth closeup

When Hautlence unveiled its first limited edition Labyrinth (18 available) in Basel in 2016, it came as a surprise to many. It is more a square case housing a small ball in a maze. A complex mechanism brings the ball back into play once the player’s managed to get it into one of the two holes. The special watch was a success for the brand despite it not being able to tell the time.

The collection is primarily a metaphor for a time where there are no deadlines. The original philosophy is in keeping with Colette’s avant-garde products. The famous Parisian store sets the trends and unearths the latest new pieces. The limited edition (5 available) is exclusively available from Colette and its modern city-chic look is true to Hautlence’s designs.

Price: 9,900 CHF hautlence.com

By Inès Aloui

frederique constant classics moonphase automatic closeup

FRÉDÉRIQUE CONSTANT – CLASSIC MOONPHASE AUTOMATIC

A classic rebooted

The new Classic Moonphase Automatic captures Frédérique Constant’s love of classic and sophisticated watches. The Swiss brand has unveiled three models from its famous collection for the first time.

Frédérique Constant has introduced the latest pieces from one of its star collections, the Classic Moonphase Automatic. The painstaking detail, materials and technology used by Frédérique Constant give the timeless range the quality and classic style so dear to the brand’s fans. Frédérique Constant is true to its vision of making top quality and affordable watches.

The Classic Moonphase Automatic epitomises these values. 2016 is the first time that three models have been unveiled in a 40mm case: one in yellow gold-plated steel, one in stainless steel with a leather strap and one entirely in stainless steel. There’s something for everyone.

frederique constant classics moonphase automatic closeup

The self-winding FC-330 calibre in the new watches fuels the hours, minutes, seconds and date with hand on the silver dial adorned with Clous de Paris engraving, black Roman numerals and classic Breguet hands. The date appears in a counter and the moon phase lies in an elaborate display at 6. Flip the watch over to gaze at the decorated movement through the transparent back. The strap comes in black, brown or blue leather or steel.

Frédérique Constant is famous for being involved in every stage of the watchmaking process from initial design to final assembly and quality control. Since its foundation in 1988, Frédérique Constant has designed, made and assembled its calibres in-house and boasts a collection of 21 different movements created since 2004. Every watch is hand-assembled using modern equipment and goes through thorough checks to ensure the watches’ quality and longevity.

Price: 1,760 CHF (leather) – 1,890 CHF (steel) frederiqueconstant.com

By Inès Aloui

breguet classique rose desir reine closeup

BREGUET- DÉSIR DE LA REINE LA CLASSIQUE ROSE DE LA REINE

Tribute to Marie-Antoinette

Marie-Antoinette is part of Breguet’s history. The loyal client was behind several creations including the piece named after her. In tribute to the last queen of France, Breguet has unveiled Désir de la Reine and La Classique Rose de la Reine.

Event partner Breguet has unveiled two new exclusive timepieces to coincide with the launch of the “Marie-Antoinette, a queen in Versailles” exhibition at the Résidence de France in Tokyo. Marie-Antoinette was more than a symbol; she hugely influenced Abraham-Louis Breguet’s designs. Pocket watch N°1160 is a prime example. The iconic piece is a copy of the Marie-Antoinette N°160, a watch which Abraham-Louis Breguet was commissioned to make for the queen in 1783 and spent almost a century as one of the most complex pieces ever made.

breguet classique rose desir reine closeup

With this in mind, the brand’s sophisticated models are still inspired by the French queen. The 18 carat white gold Classique Rose de la Reine is named after one of her favourite flowers, Rosa Centifolia Bullata, visible on the dial. What elevates the piece to another level is the skilful enamelling as the subtle blend of different enamel colours brings the regal rose to life. The time is tracked by openwork pomme hands in white gold whilst the minute track has tiny gold dots to give pride of place to the diamond-covered dial. The self-winding movement is showcased beneath the sapphire crystal back so you can admire the brand’s technical expertise. The bezel, chapter ring and lugs are paved with 167 brilliant-cut diamonds whilst the strap gleams with pink satin.

Breguet has also put a fresh spin on the Désir de la Reine for the occasion. The dial glitters with pink sapphires in different sizes whose many tones create shading. Marie-Antoinette’s signature bow in 18 carat white gold at 6 o’clock is paved with 87 brilliant-cut diamonds and two pear-shape diamonds whilst a briolette diamond sparkles on the crown. Like the Classique Rose de la Reine, the Désir de la Reine also has a pink satin strap but the deployment clasp is paved with 26 brilliant-cut diamonds. Breguet has captured the femininity that Marie-Antoinette epitomised for centuries after her death in two new fabulously ladylike pieces.

Price: 75,000 CHF (Classique Rose de la Reine) , 139,000 CHF (Désir de la Reine) breguet.com

By Inès Aloui