Monthly Archives: January 2018

audemars piguet millenary 2018 closeup

AUDEMARS PIGUET – MILLENARY

Audemars Piguet

OVAL FINESSE 

The Millenary watch by Audemars Piguet is built on different levels, modestly unveiling its mechanical core and bringing the Milanese mesh and Florentine finish into the collection

Although less well known than its sister watches, the Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore, the Millenary has nonetheless enjoyed great success with a clientele interested in its mechanism and above all its atypical design. This model made by Audemars Piguet was born in 1995 and attracts the eye with the oval shape of the case and the architecture of the dial. The dial, in fact, is made on different levels, unveiling part of its mechanism while giving it a unique three-dimensional aspect.

audemars piguet millenary 2018 closeup

In 2015, the collection expanded with the introduction of several pieces, including two models made of white gold and pink gold with a bezel and horns set with diamonds. The precious stones highlighting the rim of the case, measuring some 40mm in diameter, accentuate the curve and the brilliance of the two white mother-of-pearl dials displaying the hours and minutes (off-set at 3 o’clock) and the running seconds (at 6 o’clock). For 2018, the pair have been given two straps made of white or pink gold and Milanese mesh, as soft as silk.

The real novelty in the Millenary collection this year, however, is to be seen in the opal – a fine stone with iridescent reflections – on the double dial and the technique of hammering known as Florentine finish – present in the Royal Oak family since 2016 – on its white gold case. As in the above-mentioned models, the hours and minutes are shown with two pink-gold lancine-shaped hands on a large opal disc without indices; a second, smaller disc, also carved from this iridescent mineral, displays the seconds.

All three Audemars Piguet timepieces are driven by the calibre 5201, running at a gentle frequency of 3Hz (21,600 vibrations an hour) and with a power reserve of 49 hours.

Price on request

By Sharmila Bertin

breguet classique moonphase saint-valentin closeup

BREGUET – CLASSIQUE MOON PHASE LADY 9085 SAINT VALENTINE 2018

Breguet

LA VIE EN ROSE

Added to Breguet’s Classique collection in 2016, the Moon Phase Lady model is dressed in pink, with noble materials and precious stones to celebrate love.

Sometimes, simply holding a watch in the palm of your hand turns into a journey. The Classique Moon Phase Lady 9085, specially designed by Breguet for Saint Valentine’s Day, is, for romantic souls, an invitation to sail down the River Seine, to stroll along the quayside beside tall, elegant buildings and hear Edith Piaf murmuring “La vie en rose” in your ear.

breguet classique moonphase saint-valentin closeup

Introduced by the Parisian watchmakers two years ago in the Classique collection, the watch is adorned with a thousand fires and pink reflections to sing a hymn to love. 14 pieces of this watch with a white-gold 30-mm case covered in precious stones will be available, in homage to the mythical date of 14 February. Gradations of pink sapphires (53 in all) married with the dazzle of 13 brilliant-cut diamonds decorate the bezel and horns. These precious stones bring out the iridescent reflections on a dial made of natural mother-of-pearl. At the heart of this opalescent disc arise two blued steel Breguet “moon” tip hands ticking off the hours and minutes.

The silver moon and stars, set on a pink lacquered background and partly hidden by a heart-shaped magnifying glass, discreetly watch the seconds go by.

All the functions of the Classique Phase de Lune Dame 9085 are driven by the calibre 537L, an automatic mechanical movement providing 45 hours of power reserve.

A pink, delicately satin-feel alligator leather strap with a white gold tang buckle set with pink sapphires and diamonds rounds off the sublime effect.

Price upon request breguet.com

By Sharmila Bertin

jaquet droz phm dog 2018 closeup

JAQUET DROZ – PETITE HEURE MINUTE RELIEF DOG PETITE HEURE MINUTE DOG

Jaquet Droz

FROM BEIJING TO LA CHAUX-DE-FONDS

Closely linked to Chinese culture since the 18th century, Jaquet Droz is perpetuating Eastern astrological traditions with two models in its Ateliers d’Art collection.

A long, long time ago, Pierre Jaquet-Droz, the founder of the brand of the same name, made a long and dangerous journey that took him all the way to China to show off his famous automata. Since then, the culture of this distant country has remained deeply engraved in the Jaquet Droz archives, but also in the current collections, especially the Ateliers d’Art collection that has now been joined by two new models. The Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog and Petite Heure Minute Dog pay homage to the 11th sign in the Chinese astrological calendar, the dog. Each version is available in 28 pieces.

jaquet droz phm dog 2018 closeup

In the magical hands of the Jaquet Droz craftsmen, man’s best friend, known for its loyalty, generosity and energy, has become the main character in a poetic history. The dog is embodied by a Pekingese with a black and white coat, and makes its way across a “Grand Feu” enamel dial, where blades of tall grass or peonies (on the Petite Heure Minute Dog model) have been delicately painted. This miniature picture is discreetly dominated by a couple of red-gold hands showing the hours and the minutes, and driven by the automatic 2653P movement.

We can see the faithful pet in relief, a miniature sculpture made of yellow or white gold, framed by plants and set on a cuprite disc on the Petite Heure Minute Relief Dog model. This flamboyant mineral with its sometimes mahogany or purple reflections evokes the colour red, a symbol of luck and happiness, and very much present in Chinese culture. Two small, off-centred dials at 12 o’clock, one made of onyx decorated with golden hands and the other made of white mother-of-pearl with blued steel hands, display the hours and minutes. These functions are driven by the calibre 2653Si, which is hidden in a grey-gold case set with diamonds or made of red gold.

Price from 31,150 CHF to 79,950 CHF jaquet-droz.com

By Sharmila Bertin

montblanc star legacy rieussec chronograph closeup

MONTBLANC – STAR LEGACY NICOLAS RIEUSSEC CHRONOGRAPH

Montblanc

WRITING THE MEASUREMENT OF TIME

Montblanc opens a new chapter for its GMT monopusher chronograph. While technically it remains unchanged, the design has considerably changed, helping the dial gain in readability.

In 2008, Montblanc introduced a chronograph that was unusual in measuring short time with the help of two rotating discs. A fixed double index was used to read the time results in the 60-second and 30-minute counters. Ten years later, the brand has revisited its monopusher chronograph Nicolas Rieussec. There are no radical changes, but an aesthetic progression in the details. So, the timepiece has kept the unique time information layout on the silver white dial. Nonetheless, it has been revised to improve readability. The titanium chapter ring and rotating discs of the chronograph are now curved to provide relief. The Arabic numerals are slimmer. A discreet railroad-scale timer runs around them. The date is now displayed at 6 o’clock in a sophisticated counter. A guilloché pattern and azure finish provide an overall effect that is worthy of this fine piece of watchmaking. The steel case has also been redesigned, with its diameter increasing from 43 to 44.8mm. Settings are now made using a rounded and grooved crown for easier handling.

montblanc star legacy rieussec chronograph closeup

The watch is still driven by the automatic calibre MB R200. With twin barrels, it provides a healthy power reserve of 72 hours. The caseback reveals the components decorated by Geneva waves.

The Star Legacy Nicolas Rieussec Chronograph is worn with a new Sfumato blue alligator leather strap, designed by the brand in Florence.

Price: €7,450

By Dan Diaconu

tag heuer formula1 fangio closeup with caseback

TAG HEUER – FORMULA 1 FANGIO

Tag Heuer

A LEGEND ON YOUR WRIST

With his unique record, Fangio fully deserved a homage from the most sportive of watchmaking brands. The result is this precise and solid chronograph.

On 4 August 1957, Juan Manuel Fangio won his 5th Formula 1 world championship on the Nürburgring track in Germany. Since the history of TAG Heuer and of the famous motor racing competition are closely linked, the brand wished to celebrate the 60th anniversary of the event that definitively made the driver a legend with a new limited edition. The Formula 1 Fangio stands out through the presence on the dial of a stripe in the colours of Argentina, the Maestro’s native land, and on the caseback with his signature and the watch number. Otherwise, we can see all the features of the chronographs in the collection with the sub-dials in tricompax position and a date counter at 4 o’clock. The design is rounded off by the rhodied and faceted hour and minute hands, which are coated with white Super-LumiNova®.

tag heuer formula1 fangio closeup with caseback

A highly precise quartz movement drives the chronograph functions. Short time is measured in traditional fashion with the help of brushed steel monopushers. The results are displayed in minute and hour sub-dials located at 9 and 6 o’clock, respectively. The central second hand shows the times down to 1/10th of a second.

While this men’s sports watch is very precise, the Formula 1 Fangio is also robust with a 43mm-wide case made of polished steel, and watertight down to 200 metres. The 900 pieces in this limited edition are worn with a matching strap, also made of polished steel and equipped with a folding clasp.

Price: €1,350 tagheuer.com

By Dan Diaconu

girard perregaux laureato skeleton closeup with caseback

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – LAUREATO SKELETON CERAMIC

Girard-Perregaux

FROM DARKNESS COMES LIGHT

Black is a symbol of elegance, providing a palette of tones that can only be seen with the help of subtle lighting. The new Laureato illustrates this perfectly.

In 2017, Girard-Perregaux gave a new lease of life to the Laureato. This 1970s icon has been released in countless versions over the last 40 years with a whole host of diameters, materials and colours. For this new edition, the timepiece has kept with the spirit of the original design, the famous octagonal bezel, and has been given a very contemporary material, ceramics. To bring reliefs and textures into play, the brand has provided an open structure, with a totally skeletonised calibre. The light brings out the shapes and the satin and polished finishes in the 42mm-wide case. It also illuminates the beautifully rounded components in the self-winding movement coated with black PVD. This exceptional mechanism is crowned with a double-faced, anti-reflection crystal glass, providing excellent visibility. The design reinforces the chic/sports character of the Laureato, which can be worn both with a casual outfit and with a made-to-measure suit.

girard perregaux laureato skeleton closeup with caseback

The calibre GP01800-006 provides the watch with 54 hours of autonomy. It drives the hour and minute hands, coated in luminous material, as well as the discreet small seconds at 10 o’clock. Through the sapphire caseback, the rotor carved out of a block of pink gold can be seen, with a openwork design, like the rest of the movement.

With its ceramic case and strap, the Laureato Skeleton Ceramic gains in user-friendliness and lightness. Its lucky owner will also enjoy the fact that it is practically scratch-free and has allergenic properties.

Price on request

By Dan Diaconu

iwc potuguese tourbillon middle east closeup

IWC – PORTUGIESER TOURBILLON MIDDLE EAST SPECIAL EDITION

IWC

CONQUERING THE EAST!

At the last Dubai Watch Week IWC introduced a specially designed timepiece for Middle Eastern collectors, with the tourbillon in the spotlight.

The Portugieser collection by IWC, created in the 1930s, was a response to a specific request from two Portuguese merchants, and used movements from hunter-case watches with the calibre 74 and 98. For collectors in the Middle East, the watchmakers from Schaffhouse unveiled the Portugieser Tourbillon Middle East Special Edition at the last Dubai Watch Week, in partnership with the Seddiqi family, fervent supporters of the brand.

iwc potuguese tourbillon middle east closeup

This limited edition features a visually very attractive dial in a deep emerald green colour and a one-minute flying tourbillon at 9 o’clock. The Portugieser Tourbillon Middle East Special Edition has a 43mm-wide case, together with a black alligator leather strap. At its heart is nestling the in-house calibre 98900, which is hand-wound and has a power reserve of almost 54 hours. IWC has designed a watch that is both elegant and impressive.

The pink gold on the hour and minute hands, and the power reserve, echo the gold on the Roman numeral indices set around the railroad on the dial. The dual tones, with pink gold on the dial elements and steel for the case, reflect the harmonious blend of materials used by IWC in this collectors’ edition. Lastly, the Portugieser Tourbillon Middle East Special Edition comes with the brand’s signature element: a variable inertia balance, which can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback. As a proof of unique skills, this ultra-limited edition will be available to just 25 collectors, and only in shops in the Middle East region.

Price on request

By Isabelle Guignet

panerai pam 858 dog year closeup open

PANERAI – LUMINOR 1950 SEALAND 3 DAYS AUTOMATIC ACCIAIO 44MM

Panerai

LIKE A DOG WITH TWO TAILS

For ten years now, Officine Panerai has maintained the tradition of paying homage to the Chinese horoscope. 2018 will see the year of man’s best friend, the dog.

In 2009, Panerai decided to pay homage to the Chinese horoscope with timepieces decorated with the animal of the year in question. An Ox, Tiger, Rabbit, Dragon, Snake, Horse, Goat, Monkey and Rooster have already been depicted on the previous watches. The Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio has been designed for 2018 and shows man’s best friend, the dog, and is available in 88 pieces, a lucky number in Chinese culture.

panerai pam 858 dog year closeup open

With a 44mm-wide case made of brushed steel, the Luminor 1950 Sealand 3 Days Automatic Acciaio contains the calibre P.9000, a self-winding automatic movement made by Panerai. The mechanical heart of the watch runs at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations an hour and provides three days of power reserve. As well as the hour and minute functions, the timepiece has a small seconds dial at 9 o’clock and a date counter at 3 o’clock. Arabic numerals, stick-shaped indices and luminous dots are revealed when the hand-engraved brushed steel cover is opened. Panerai has designed a simple grey dial, and there is a black rubber or a supple brown leather strap to provide variety.

Price: 23,200 CHF

By Isabelle Guignet

piaget altiplano ultimate automatic 910p profil

PIAGET – ALTILANO ULTIMATE AUTOMATIC

Piaget

NEW RECORD

Since 1957, Piaget has been bringing enchantment to watchmaking with creations filled with finesse and elegance. The new Altiplano is now the flattest self-winding watch in the world.

2017 saw the 60th anniversary of Piaget’s flagship watch, the Altiplano. To mark the year with brio, the brand has unveiled a new timepiece, turning all its skills towards the extra flat. The Altiplano Ultimate Automatic is just 4.30mm thick and is actually the slimmest self-winding mechanical watch in the world. To achieve this feat, the calibre and its design have been blended to the utmost. It’s as if the 41mm-wide case and the movement were as one! The 238 components in the mechanism have been designed and assembled with this record in mind. Three years of development were needed in this quest to optimise space. The performances, too, are all present and correct. The calibre 910P, with its gold peripheral rotor coated in black PVD, provides an ample power reserve of about 50 hours.

piaget altiplano ultimate automatic 910p profil

Like in the other models in the collection, the Altiplano Ultimate Automatic has given refinement pride of place. Two versions are available, one in pink gold and the other in grey gold. Both are worn with an elegant strap made of black alligator leather and with a tang buckle.

Price on request piaget.com

By Dan Diaconu

audemars piguet royal oak offshore 25 anniversary lifestyle

AUDEMARS PIGUET – ROYAL OAK OFFSHORE 25th ANNIVERSARY

Audemars Piguet

CELEBRATING A QUARTER OF A CENTURY

Audemars Piguet is celebrating 25 years of its Royal Oak Offshore with two remarkable timepieces, including a new, futuristic looking one.

2018 will mark Royal Oak Offshore’s 25th anniversary. During the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie, the brand from Le Brassus will unveil two timepieces to celebrate the quarter-century of the iconic collection imagined by Emmanuel Gueit: a reissue of the original Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph, as well as a brand new Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph with a futuristic look. Audemars Piguet strikes hard and ever-so precisely!

audemars piguet royal oak offshore 25 anniversary lifestyle

The Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph, designed for the quarter centenary of the Audemars Piguet collection, boasts a 45 mm-diameter stainless steel or rose gold case. The 2947 calibre, developed exclusively for the occasion, is hand-wound and offers a 173-hour power reserve. It features a tourbillon, a chronograph, 30-minutes counter as well as a seconds, hours and minutes counter.

Audemars Piguet has designed a timepiece which will tempt collectors for the next 25 years thanks to its highly-elegant, futuristic style. As such, the somewhat rigid case has been revisited, softened, and complements the black rubber, ardillon-buckled strap. The Royal Oak Offshore Tourbillon Chronograph pursues the risky yet rewarding venture of the original model, viewed as groundbreaking back in the day and which continues to be a best seller even now.

 Price on request

 By Isabelle Guignet