Monthly Archives: November 2018

chopard mille miglia classic chronograph racing stripes closeup dial and caseback

MILLE MIGLIA CHRONOGRAPH RACING STRIPES EDITION

THE ESSENCE OF THE COMPETITION

Chopard continues to forge links between cars and watchmaking with a new limited edition released for the 70th anniversary of Porsche.

The name Porsche is closely connected to a passion for competition and for luxury sports cars. Chopard wanted to celebrate the anniversary of the German carmakers with a limited edition of just 50 numbered watches. While the Porsche 911 is the German firm’s flagship model, for the Swiss watchmakers, the Mille Miglia chronograph is the ideal timepiece to link watchmaking and sports cars. So it was quite logical to choose this model for the occasion. The brushed and silvered dial features a blue stripe like the kind seen on a racing car chassis. The extra-large figures on the dial also resemble the numbers on a sports car bonnet and doors.

chopard mille miglia classic chronograph racing stripes closeup dial and casebackThe model will only be available in the United States. It is worn with a leather strap with a rubber inside lining inspired by the tread on 1960s Dunlop racing car tyres.

Price: 5,430 EUR chopard.com

By Dan Diaconu

a lange sohne datograph up down lumen movement

DATOGRAPH UP/DOWN LUMEN

IN THE SPOTLIGHT

With the Lumen feature developed by the German watchmakers, the Datograph’s nights will be even better than its days. The phosphorescent elements provide a unique light show when darkness falls.

A lumen is a unit of luminous flux used in physics. But for A. Lange & Söhne, it is the name given to models with omnipresent luminous material. It all began in 2010 with the Zeitwerk Luminous. The Grande Lange 1 Lumen in 2013, and then the Grande Lange 1 Moon Phase Lumen in 2016 showed another aspect of the German watchmakers’ talents. Imagination played a role in the collections, becoming the aesthetic counterpart to painstaking technical skill, resulting in a total spectacle. This year, it’s the Datographe Up/Down model’s turn to get this very unusual feature. Day and night, the time information is perfectly visible on the chronograph with a flyback function. Not only is the hour hand and the central second hand illuminated in a deep green colour in the dark, but so are two counters in bicompax position, the large date and the outside of the dial with its minute track and tachymetric scale. The semi-transparent sapphire crystal reveals part of the mechanical architecture of the watch, while capturing UV light to recharge the coloured pigments.

a lange sohne datograph up down lumen movementPrice: 95,000 EUR

By Dan Diaconu

blancpain fifty fathoms bucherer blue edition caseback

FIFTY FATHOMS BATHYSCAPHE EDITION BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS

MONOCHROMATIC

The colour range recalls the shades of the sky and the sea. This limited edition made exclusively for Bucherer features an elegant blue ceramic.

Like all the timepieces in the Blue Editions collection developed by Bucherer with 14 major watchmaking firms, the Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe Edition Bucherer Blue Editions, as its name suggests, is based around a single colour. While the design is similar to the original watch dating from 1956, it now comes in a blue ceramic, like the Ocean Commitment II limited edition. The same material is used for the unidirectional revolving bezel and the 43.6mm-wide case, which is watertight down to 300m. The sunburst-finish dial has two chronograph totalisers and a small seconds sub-dial, plus the traditional pair of stick-shaped hour and minute hands. The time information is completed by a date counter at 4.30. When you turn the watch over, the sapphire crystal unveils the automatic movement and the rotor in the watch’s signature colour.

blancpain fifty fathoms bucherer blue edition casebackPrice: 17,800 CHF blancpain.com

By Dan Diaconu

omega constellation manhattan lifstyle

CONSTELLATION MANHATTAN

A STAR IS BORN

The 50 or so watches in the new Constellation Manhattan collection by the Biel/Bienne brand are available in three different sizes, three types and colours of metal and six dial colours. You are sure to find something to suit you in this very wide range!

The Constellation collection is probably the most traditional range in the Omega watch catalogue Although it was launched back in 1952, it took 30 years before it became an easily identifiable icon on the wrist. It was only in 1982 that the Biel/Bienne brand added two pairs of “claws” at 3 and 6 o’clock to keep the crystal and the gasket nicely sealed to the case. They became the emblem of the Constellation family. The watch was modernised and modified to keep pace with the times. In 1995, the claws lost their technical purpose but were still present on the case. The stick-shaped hour markers on the bezel were replaced by Roman numerals and the hands adopted the dauphine design. Other versions, in 2003 and 2009, preceded the model that Omega recently introduced at an event in Shanghai: the Constellation Manhattan.

omega constellation manhattan lifstyleThis new timepiece comes in three widths (25, 28 and 29mm), three types and colours of metal (steel, yellow gold, SednaTM gold), as well as two-colour versions, with six dial colours (dark grey, white, silvered opaline, blue, brown and champagne) and two hour-marker formats (facetted triangles or brilliant-cut diamonds). The smaller models house a quartz movement, while the 29mm-wide watch features the automatic Master Chronometer Omega 8700 calibre, providing a power reserve of 50 hours.

Prices range from 2,800 CHF (25mm, steel on steel, quartz movement) to 24,800 CHF (29mm, SednaTM gold with jewels, automatic movement) omegawatches.com

By Sharmila Bertin

longines heritage military closeup

HERITAGE MILITARY

FAITHFUL REISSUE

The Heritage Military is a new addition to the collection featuring watches inspired by the history of Longines. A faithful reproduction of the design of a watch worn by members of the Royal Air Force.

Although the Heritage Military watch was shown confidentially to a few retailers and journalists last spring in the cosy atmosphere of the Longines stand at Baselworld, it was only this autumn that we got to see the timepiece “for real”. It joins the Saint-Imier watchmakers’ Heritage collection, including reissues and items inspired by the company’s archives. The new watch has an original history. It all began with an English collector. He was the owner of a 1940s-era watch that had belonged to Stanley Turner (1913-1985), an RAF pilot who was decorated for services during the Second World War. The collector showed the watch to Longines, and the company used it as the inspiration for the reissued Heritage Military.

longines heritage military closeupThe Heritage Military’s steel case, with a diameter slightly increased from 32.5 to 38.5mm, features a fluted crown and a curved bezel. It is worn with one of two green straps made either of vintage leather or NATO textile.

Price: 2,000 CHF

By Sharmila Bertin

tag heuer formula 1 bucherer blue edition caseback

FORMULA 1 BUCHERER BLUE EDITIONS

PRIMARY COLOUR

This collaboration between the Swiss retailer and the watchmaking brand plays the modern and exclusive card since it is only on sale from the Bucherer website.

The Bucherer Blue Editions collection consists of 18 exclusive timepieces co-produced with 12 major Swiss watchmakers. All the models are focused on a single main colour, blue. Among them, the TAG Heuer Formula 1 stands out, with all the time features boasting a sports-chic design on a magnificent sunburst dial. To guarantee readability in all lighting conditions, the hour and minute hands, as well as the large hand-applied hour markers and numerals, are coated in lume. A sub-dial at 3 o’clock displays the date. This superb layout is encircled by a revolving, unidirectional bezel made of aluminium with a 60-minute scale. Two easily interchangeable straps, one made of steel and the other made of blue rubber, help to match all clothing styles.

tag heuer formula 1 bucherer blue edition casebackPrice: 1,990 CHF tagheuer.com

By Dan Diaconu

omega seamaster aqua terra golf closeup green dial

SEAMASTER AQUA TERRA 150 M EDITION GOLF

WINNING SHOT

Omega has a watch for all fans of the high-precision sport with models featuring a calibre as strong as a golf club and as accurate as a champion’s swing.

Although Omega is at home in many different domains, its attraction for the world of golf is rightly a focus of special attention. The Ryder Cup took place in France in October and showed the growing interest in the little white ball. The brand is now committed to the development of a sport that is gaining in popularity. The Seamaster Aqua Terra 150 M Edition Golf watches worn by Sergio Garcia and Rory McIlroy, two well-known professional golfers, gives the brand’s interest a material form. Both timepieces, like all the 22 versions of the model available, play on the surfaces and colours. On the dial, the lume-coated hands move above a horizontalteak” pattern, coloured black or white, depending on the version, with hour markers that can be seen as clearly as the flags in the holes on a golf course. The central second hand is either green or orange. The same colours can be found on the numerals and the minute track, on the Seamaster logo and on the two-colour striped NATO strap.

omega seamaster aqua terra golf closeup green dialInside the 41mm-wide steel case (watertight down to 150m), the Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8900 calibre provides precise display of the time data and the date, to be seen in a counter at 6 o’clock. This highly accurate hand-wound movement is very robust and supplies 60 hours of power reserve. It can also resist magnetic fields of 15,000 gauss. The sapphire crystal on the caseback reveals the bidirectional rotor adorned with Geneva waves in arabesques.

With assets like these, the Seamaster Aqua Terra is now at home both in the sea and on the greens.

Price: 5,400 CHF omegawatches.com

By Dan Diaconu

panerai radiomir 1940 closeup cream dial

RADIOMIR 1940 3 DAYS ACCIAIO

A DIVE INTO THE PAST

In the past, customers would come to the store in Florence to buy table clocks or wall clocks. The design of one such has inspired these new Radiomir watches.

Panerai continues to delve into its rich past to bring new timepieces to life. The latest model, the Radiomir 1940 3 Days Acciaio, combines the collection’s legendary watch case shape with a surprising and elegant dial designed in echo of an antique wall clock. The attraction of the design lies in the perfect combination of colour and typography. The magnificent Art Deco-style numerals are enhanced through the contrast of black against an ivory background or vice versa, depending on the version. A railroad minute track and a fine circle marking the inner rim are the only other elements found in the simple design. A curved acrylic crystal covers the dial.

panerai radiomir 1940 closeup cream dialThe dial and mechanism are housed in a cushion-style, 47mm-wide Radiomir case that is water-resistant down to 100m, while the 316L steel provides excellent resistance to rust. The two models (PAM00791 and PAM00790) are worn on a natural leather strap, adding to the retro style.

Price: 8,900 EUR

By Dan Diaconu

breguet tradition gmt 7067 closeup caseback

TRADITION GMT 7067

EXCELLENCE IN MOVEMENT

Like the other watches in the Tradition collection, this model’s design takes inspiration from a subscription watch with a visible mechanism made by the great watchmaking firm in the 18th century.

With the Tradition 7027, launched in 2005, Breguet opened up a new line of watches all equipped with a special feature: the mechanism can be seen above the watch plate, resulting in a strong visual impact. The attractions of the Tradition GMT 7067 are maintained through the unique architecture of the mechanism, so that the main components are all visible, including the balance wheel at 4 o’clock. The watch is not only beautiful to look at, but is practical too, with a second time zone. A guilloché silver disc at 12 o’clock is home to the traditional blue “moon tip” Breguet hands, making their way around an hour rim with Roman numerals. This is where local time is shown. A second area, offset at 8 o’clock, is dedicated to the reference time. A silvered day/night indicator is placed above, so the owner can keep track of time during trips from one continent to another.

breguet tradition gmt 7067 closeup casebackWhen you are on your travels, the Tradition GMT 7067 is worn with an alligator leather strap matching all elegant styles.

Price: 38,200 EUR breguet.com

By Dan Diaconu

jaeger lecoultre polaris geographic world timer with movement

POLARIS GEOGRAPHIC WT

THE WORLD WITHIN REACH OF THE WRIST

A new model has come to swell the ranks of the Polaris collection and was launched at the SIHH earlier this year. This limited edition made by the “Grande Maison“ is specially aimed at big travellers.

In 1968, Jaeger-LeCoultre marked the history of watchmaking with the launch of the Memovox Polaris, a diver’s watch equipped with a mechanical alarm and produced in almost 1,800 pieces. The design of the patented case helped to optimise the sound quality of the alarm under water. This legendary model has given rise to a sizeable collection, which was presented in January at the SIHH. Today it is joined by the Polaris Geographic WT model.

Borrowing from the design of its ancestor, but brought up to date, this watch is made for travellers or for anyone whose professional or private life calls for keeping track of several different time zones. 250 watches are available only from Jaeger-LeCoultre stores.

jaeger lecoultre polaris geographic world timer with movementRight at the heart of the elegant 42mm-wide steel case is the calibre 936A/1, an in-house self-winding movement. The mechanism runs at 4Hz and comes with a single barrel, providing a power reserve of over 38 hours. The calibre is partly visible through the sapphire crystal case back.

On the dial, Jaeger-LeCoultre has played with colours and textures. The blue at the centre of the Polaris Geographic WT turns black near the chapter ring, with a few red touches here and there. The day/night indicator is black and white. For the finishing touches, there is a sanded centre, opaline for the city disc (adjusted using a crown at 10 o’clock) and blue for the three sub-dials (a date with a hand at 2 o’clock, home hour and minute indicators at 6 o’clock and a power reserve indicator at 10 o’clock). As for the regular time information, the hours, minutes and seconds for local time are shown in the traditional way by central baton-shaped hands.

Price: 14,800 CHF www.jaeger-lecoultre.com

By Sharmila Bertin