AFRICAN DREAM

With the very limited edition Slim by Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie, the Parisian brand has combined several arts and crafts on a single dial. Time gives way to nature and the beauty of craftsmanship.

“I have dedicated my life to nature and want to promote it through artistic emotion,“ says Yves-Marie de Malleray in talking about his work, a subtle blend of painting and engraving. The artist who has partnered with Hermès is a specialist in the animal world, including “Les Zèbres de Tanzanie“ (Zebras of Tanzania), a pattern created in 2010 and notably available as a large silk scarf or beach towel. The design showing a herd of zebras with their striped coats inspired the artists and craftsmen at Hermès to transfer it to a watch dial. Combining several different miniaturised decorative techniques, the dial on the Slim d’Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie, available in just twelve pieces, is breathtakingly beautiful.

This new watch by Hermès blends the craft of champlevé enamelling, enamel painting and leather marquetery work on a surface area that is little bigger than a coin. A work requiring patience and meticulousness. The white gold disc is incised to form the outline of a zebra and then coated with several layers of white enamel. Then, after delicate polishing, the animal’s decorative winding stripes are painted using a mixture of enamel powders and essential oils. The last stage is to add fragments of full-grain calf leather that are reduced to a thickness of just 0.5mm, using the marquetery technique, to provide the finishing touch.

In the centre of this zebra landscape are two slender, baton-style, silvered hands discreetly displaying the hours and minutes. They are driven by the H1950 calibre, a self-winding movement providing 42 hours of power reserve and housed in a 39.5mm white-gold Slim case.

The Slim d’Hermès Les Zèbres de Tanzanie is attached to the wrist with a graphite-coloured alligator leather strap with a white-gold tang buckle.

Price: 55,000 CHF hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

H IN EVERY WHICH WAY

Black or white, horizontal or vertical, lacquered or coated in diamonds, the Parisian brand’s signature initial plays with directions in a feast for the eyes true to the playful spirit that Hermès watches are known for.

The H in Hermès is a symbol in itself that appears in the Parisian brand’s pieces. It’s sometimes subtle, sometimes extrovert and sneaks into every craft and collection from the famous belt buckle and tie to the silk scarf and tableware. And of course not watches like the new Heure H Double Jeu. Designed in 1996 by the designer Philippe Mouquet who was also behind the famous Voyage d’Hermès perfume bottle, the Heure H’s body is the 8^th letter of the Latin alphabet turned into a bezel with the base as lugs.

This version of the Double Jeu showcases the duality of colours, with inky black or classic white, and materials by contrasting silky lacquer with jagged diamonds. This sensory game that dazzles the sense of sight and touch continues along the H’s lines. The initial glitters either up and down or side to side; it’s surrounded by 122 diamonds (vertically-set) or the bottom half and centre line glitters with 93 diamonds (horizontally-set) whilst the top half is coated in black or white lacquer. The latter version with the gem-covered bottom half has no markers but a silver bar running through the centre.

Four curvy Arabic numerals lie on the edge of the Heure H Double Jeu’s lacquered dial on the vertically-paved model that literally melt into the main dial. Two little silver spear-shaped hands track the hours and minutes in the middle of the glittering square.

The square steel case measures 21x21mm with a white grained or black Barenia calfskin strap and deployment clasp.

Price: 5,800 – 8,500 CHF hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

THE SECRET OF THE PYRAMID

This is both a watch and a piece of jewellery, where the time is discreet, hidden beneath a metal cabochon in the three new versions of this model by Hermès

Well known for its fun, creative spirit, Hermès likes to give objects a new identify and offer them a form that is far away from their original purpose. This was the case for the pyramid-shaped nails decorating leather hunting dogs’ collars in the early 20^th century, which the Parisian brand incorporated into its belts in the 1930s and later into its bracelets. In 1993, the famous rounded stud became a secret watch named Médor, the French equivalent of “Rex” or “Fido”.

To get the summer off to a beautiful start, Hermès has launched three new models of the Médor Rock, still with its pyramid-shaped cover and four delicately curved facets. The cover and the small square 16x16mm case are made of steel and available in polished metal or coated in coloured lacquer, with some versions set off by two interlacing rows of 44 diamonds. A press on the crown produces an “Open Sesame” effect to reveal the dial. The square face comes with triangular hour markers and is dressed in silvered opaline on the polished steel models, but assumes warmer tones for the lacquered versions, together with quite classic colours on the pyramidal dome: white, black, red vermilion and ink blue. The hours and minutes are displayed at the centre with the help of small sword-shaped hands, driven by a quartz movement.

Since Hermès is the great leather specialist – an experience derived from its original profession as saddlemakers – the straps made for these Médor Rock watches complement the spirit of elegance. The triple-tour pieces made of smooth leather (red, etoupe grey, russet, blue, orange), grained leather (white) or Barenia leather (natural, black) are worn on the wrist with a steel tang buckle.

Price: 3,600 CHF (polished steel) – 4,100 CHF (lacquered steel) – 6,000 (lacquered steel and diamonds) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

THE CAVALCADE OF TIME

The legendary Arceau with its asymmetrical lugs, designed with talent and shrewdness by Henri d’Origny in 1978, is far more than just a round object that can tell you the time. In fact, it is a brilliant form of artistic expression. The proof is found in the many versions made by Hermès featuring the skills of its artists and craftsmen, particularly the Arceau Millefiori, Arceau Lift Chevaux En Camouflage or the Arceau Temari models, to name just a few. This year, the designers at the Parisian brand have opted to highlight mother-of-pearl marquetry and lacquered champlevé engraving in the Arceau Cavales watch.

This new model by Hermès is available in two versions: the first, very trendy, from the dial to strap, is available in two sizes (MM for the medium model and PM for the small model), and the second is deep black and delicately highlighted with diamonds.

All dressed in white, the Arceau Cavales has a steel case measuring 28 or 36 mm and is watertight down to 30m. Encircled by a chapter ring set with some 70 white diamonds, the dial displays a stylised, mother-of-pearl horse’s head. Using the miniature marquetry technique, small iridescent fragments have been placed end to end like a puzzle to produce the “Cavales” pattern. At the centre of this opaline composition, two leaf-shaped, silvery hands point to the hours and minutes.

The second version of the Arceau Cavales has a black lacquer dial. To bring out the animal symbolising Hermès, the craftsmen have used the champlevé technique, which is usually seen in work on enamel, and which consists in digging out the metal material before filling it with colour. On this 28mm-wide steel watch, diamonds have been set on the bezel.

Price: 7,300 CHF (PM mother-of-pearl) – 8,600 CHF (PM lacquer) – 8,800 CHF (MM mother-of-pearl) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

SQUARING THE CIRCLE

Much more than a watch, the Carré H is a designer object, playing with geometric shapes and finishes. The new version gains in elegance and personality.

Have you heard of Marc Berthier? A talented French architect and designer, he is well known for his simple, but striking creations, in particular the famous Tykho radio. Another one of his works has been brought up to date this year by Hermès: the Carré H watch, first launched in 2010. Its name comes from its square (carré in French) shape, measuring 38mm on each side, and featuring a steel case with a polished and shot-peened finish that is now a few millimetres bigger. The angles have been rounded to give the timepiece a more casual style. On the anthracite or black dial, the designer plays on shapes and finishes to add more light. This elegant piece of geometry features two circles. The opaline centre with a guilloché pattern is encircle by a grained hour rim. The outer surface is adorned with a sunburst or opaline finish. A new central second hand with a curved yellow or red counterweight, depending on the version, keeps track of time. The hour and minute hands have been redesigned, while the Arabic numerals display an exclusive typography. This stylised composition provides the watch with a new personality and excellent readability.

The Carré H model is also now driven by an automatic movement made in the workshops of the Vaucher Manufacture. The calibre H1912 generates a healthy power reserve of 50 hours.

Like all watches made by Hermes, the Carré H is worn with an elegant strap made of natural or black Barenia calfskin with a tang buckle.

Price: €5,900 hermes.com

By Dan Diaconu

SPORTS STYLE

Elegance and a sports look are no longer contradictory. Hermès has proved it once again with the new men’s watch from the Arceau collection.

Kalos kagathos, “the beautiful and the good” in Ancient Greek. The words were used in Antiquity to describe refinement and prestige. When you first see the new Arceau Chrono Titane, which will be officially launched by Hermès at the Salon de la Haute Horlogerie in Geneva in January 2018, you find that the words fit this timepiece like a glove. The fruit of the inspiration of Henry d’Origny in 1978, the Arceau model has defied the passing of time. It has kept abreast of fashion through new and apt interpretations, always remaining true to the original spirit. In this version, the 41mm-wide case and asymmetrical buckle are made of titanium, giving the watch greater lightness and robustness. Its natural elegance, originating from the world of horse-riding, has also developed into a more sporting style.

On the galvanic black dial, the dauphine-style watch hands point to Arabic numerals with their instantly recognisable style. A self-winding movement drives the measurement of short time periods with the help of a large central second hand and hour and minute sub-dials, placed at 9 and 6 o’clock. To round off the time features, a running seconds sub-dial at 3 o’clock can be used to check the calibre is working correctly (42 hours of power reserve). There is also a date counter at 4.30.

The Arceau Chrono Titane comes with a refined strap made of natural Barenia calfskin or embossed black leather, with saddle stitching highlighting the unique skills of the Parisian brand.

Price: €4,200 (natural leather strap) – €4,300 (black leather strap) hermes.com

By Dan Diaconu

FEROCITY ON YOUR WRIST

Hermès, a company that generally brings out watches with a simple, classic design, has let itself go with a wild creation tinged with humour: the Slim d’Hermès GRRRRR!

And with humour that was little suspected on the part of the House of Hermès! Bringing together such an imposing animal as a bear and a timepiece where fine precision and miniature tools are required for the manufacturing and the design does indeed raise a smile. And yet, the result is a wild success. This is the Slim d’Hermès GRRRRR!

The round white gold case on the Slim d’Hermès GRRRRR!, as well as the discreet lines on the white gold dial are now home for the wild animal, which doesn’t look much afraid. Hermès has produced a timepiece filled with humour and successfully tamed by the French brand’s artisan enamellers.

Price: €79,000 hermes.com

By Isabelle Guignet

FIGUREHEAD

Just like the other models in the Parisian brand’s collection, the masculine chronograph’s design rides the waves of fashion. Maybe that’s surfing a trend…

Like the ship of the same name, the Clipper has sailed through times and trends since it was first designed by the talented artistic director Henri d’Origny in 1981. Hermès brought out a sporty take on the model in 2010. The curvaceous design reminiscent of the famous sailboat’s porthole was given a sturdy but lightweight 44mm titanium case. Its new gear made the timepiece ready to face a summery sea of suntan lotion and autumn gusts in the city alike. A variety of models have since adorned sporty and stylish wrists. One pairs a grey dial with the Parisian brand’s signature orange strap whilst another is awash with blue that instantly brings the oceans to mind. The time information couldn’t be easier to read on the macho dial. The chronograph’s screwdown pushers bring to life the central seconds hand, minute and hour counters whilst the date appears in a display at 3.

The hour and minute hands and the chronograph function are as easy to handle as a sailboat on the Clipper TGM 44mm and fuelled by a benchmark self-winding mechanical movement: the Valjoux 7750. It provides a 46-hour power reserve and you can see the calibre through the caseback along with the rotor bearing the famous H logo.

The chronograph is water-resistant to depths of 200m and equally skilled at measuring short time on land as it is at exploring the deep sea depths. The Clipper is a real diving watch and fitted with a rotating bezel so you can see how much dive time you have left.

Price: CHF6,350 hermes.com

By Dan Diaconu

IT’S HEURE H TIME

The Heure H watch was designed for Hermès in 1996 by designer Philippe Mouquet and is a star in the Parisian brand’s collections. It has now been given a dash of lacquer to grab the limelight.

The agenda is pretty simple at Hermès: every design in the collections, be it leather goods, silk or watches, must have playful shapes and/or colours. We could have given “playful” a capital P just like the H for Hermès. The initial is very much part of the Parisian brand’s designs. It can be subtle like a secret signature on the bags or notebooks, obsessive when endlessly multiplied to turn into a tapestry covering silk ties or, sometimes, it becomes a piece in itself with its straight and sharp edges. The latter is how it is for the two new models in the Heure H collection.

The square dial with soft corners is also in black or white lacquer but this time translucent like opaque glass. The curvy Arabic hour numerals lie beneath a pair of silver spear-shape hands in the centre fuelled by a quartz movement.

The array of interchangeable single or double strap colours available in smooth or grained Barenia calfskin injects a dash of playful fun to the Heure H. As well as classic black or white, you can go for a cool (Maltese, electric or denim blue), warm (capucine red or orange) or vibrant colour (lime yellow).

Price: 2,650 CHF (PM single strap) – 2,950 CHF (MM double strap) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

KEEPING SLENDER WRISTS IN MIND

A must in the watch collections of the Parisian fashion house, the Slim d’Hermès is now available in two new models for the slimmest of wrists.

Just two years after its original launch, the Slim d’Hermès still delights with new offerings. Adding bespoke artistic accents and complications to the mix, this collection continues to expand with two new models in two different dial colours and case sizes. Here are a few highlights on this watch duo by Hermès.

The key to the success of Slim d’Hermès, as for most of the watch collections from this Parisian fashion house, is essentially its simplicity. Already known for quintessentially understated elegance, the Slim d’Hermès Petit Modèle and Slim d’Hermès Très Petit Modèle dress up a bit more with a strand of sparkling diamonds. In total, 60 or 70 jewels crown the steel 32mm (Petit Modèle or PM) and 24mm (Très Petit Modèle or TPM) cases. The fire from these precious gems illuminates deep black, magnolia white and pale rose dials, accentuating custom numerals designed by renowned typographer Philippe Apeloig.

In white or black depending on dial colour, tiny circular minute markers serve to emphasize his ethereal figures and a petite pearl subtly punctuates the hour. The translucent rose watch face features a grosgrain texture whilst the black lacquer boasts a sunburst pattern. Where baton hour and minute hands meet, dial centres are decorated with circular guilloché engraving.

Swiss quartz movement powers the Slim d’Hermès Petit Modèle and Slim d’Hermès Très Petit Modèle alike.

Prices: 7,250 CHF (Petit Modèle) – 6,050 CHF (Très Petit Modèle) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin