Prima facie, we may wonder what on earth a tourbillon is doing in the collections of a brand that is positioned in the “affordable luxury” segment. It doesn’t really fit in with the philosophy of any of the families of products. But is it illegitimate as such? Of course not. Baume&Mercier, one of the oldest Swiss watchmaking firms, needs no lessons from anyone on the subject. Besides, it was the creator of a famous tourbillon which won the precision contest organized by the Kew Observatory of London back in 1892. A watch (pocket) that was so well-tuned that it was never dethroned over the ten years that would ensue. Days of glory for the company that was established in Les Bois, in the middle of the Franches-Montagnes at that time. So we now understand why the watch presented this year at the SIHH – the Clifton 1982 Tourbillon, bears its name.
Today, Baume&Mercier no longer make their own movements. For its flying tourbillon, it worked hand-in-hand with ValFleurier, a Neuchâtel manufacturing firm which, like itself, is part of the Richemont Group. In this case, the calibre is a hand-wound one, set at 4 Hz (28,000 vibrations per hour), with a power reserve of 50 hours. It is housed in a red gold case that is relatively large as its diameter spans 45.5 mm. Yet having said this, its highly-classical, intensely refined style means that the object is not at all over-the-top. Quite the opposite actually… it echoes the timeless elegance that the brand has held so dear from the very beginning. This timepiece’s touch of originality comes from the position of the tourbillon carriage, set at 9 o’clock. A position that is relatively rare. The area located at 6 o’clock has been reserved for the small seconds counter.
This delightful work emulates the work performed on the three chronographs that are also part of the Clifton family, which is, apparently, Baume&Mercier’s flagship collection. “It’s successful throughout the world,” states Alain Zimmermann, the brand’s CEO. “And this is why we continue to develop it and to enhance it”. So, no surprise factor as regards these three timepieces equipped with the ETA-produced, wear-resistant Valjoux 7750 calibre, housed in a 433 mm diameter steel case. The counters are laid out in the time-honoured way, at 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock and the day and date aperture, quite logically, fills the only space left on the dial, at 3 o’clock. Ah, but here there’s something new… Baume&Mercier’s designers quested after absolute pureness of shape and understated elegance in the display of the various indicators. On one of the models, the hands are blued, on the two others, they are rhodium-plated gold. Perfect for ladies and gents who prefer classicism.