Monthly Archives: May 2015

Senator Observer

If Roald Amundsen had been born a century later, would he have been as moved by the Senator Observer as he was by the observation watch designed by Julius Assmann in 1910, one of the founding fathers of Glashütte? Would the Norwegian explorer have taken this gem of German precision with him on exciting expeditions to the polar regions? Just imagine it. He would certainly have been won over by the mechanism inside the 44mm steel case and the reliable and accurate 100-14 self-winding calibre which provides a 55-hour power reserve. He would probably have fallen for the matt black dial adorned with floral Arabic numerals and leaf-shape central hands, a small seconds counter at 9 o’ clock and a power reserve indicator at 3 o’ clock which all glow in their luminescent coating. He would surely have marvelled at the so-called “panorama” date in the double display at 6 o’ clock. Price: 9,900 CHF

Tambour Graphite Chronographe GMT

Since trunk maker Louis Vuitton first started in the 1830s, travel has always been integral to the brand. Journeys were long, packing was labour intensive and trunks were well-filled in the 19th century. The Parisian brand’s signature trunks still exist today alongside suitcases and large travel bags such as the Keepall. Travel light and travel smart, just like the Tambour which puts a second time zone and chronograph on a single dial. A self-winding LV158 calibre nestles inside the 44mm steel case. The dial gleams with different shades of grey divided into concentric circles. From the chapter ring to the centre there’s a minute track, a 24-hour graduated ring beneath a red-tipped hand (GMT) then an hour rim overlapped by the small seconds counter (at 3) and the chronograph minute counter (at 9). Price: 7,800 CHF

Pilot’s watch double chronograph edition “Le Petit Prince”

“If you please, draw me a sheep!” The blonde hero and the poetic humanist masterpiece written in 1943 by the French writer and aviator have been immortalised by the author’s posthumous youth charity, FASEF. The watchmaker IWC has been sponsoring the charity for years by designing special editions just like this 44mm pilot’s watch. The minute (at 12), hour (6) and small seconds (at 9) counters weave together in the heart of the midnight blue dial. The overlapping circles are dominated by the eye-catching jumping star display for the day of the week: seven stars representing the seven planets Le Petit Prince visits on his journey whose names are listed on the back of the steel case. A large vertical date display lies at 3 o’ clock. The hours and minutes are presented as large numerals and indices beneath leaf-shape luminescent hands brought to life by a self-winding movement. Price: 12,100CHF

Diva

Maria Callas or Liz Taylor? Joan Sutherland or Grace Kelly? It doesn’t matter if she’s an opera singer or a Hollywood star, a Diva is quite simply a talented woman, a glamorous goddess and an inspiration for the world who transcends time. Italian brand Bvlgari has captured the Diva in time in the heart of a flower with glittering petals inspired by a 60s brooch. The bloom is a feast for the eyes whose colours and shapes wrap around a 39mm white gold case paved with 76 brilliant-cut diamonds and 8 blue tanzanites. The flower’s triangular petals unfurl like a fan; the largest dazzle with turquoises and the smaller white gold petals sparkle with diamonds and are punctuated by a round diamond (8 in total, approximately 1.96 carat). Two small blue hands track the hours and minutes on the diamond dial are brought to life by a quartz movement. Price: 60,000 CHF

OMEGA – Globemaster

A wealth of inspiration from different eras has gone into making this timepiece with a vintage look but a modern heart. The first piece with the METAS certification (Federal Institute of Metrology) has delved into the Constellation archives for its design: the 12-sided brushed blue sunburst dial is reminiscent of the 1952 model whilst the notched bezel around the steel case is influenced by the 1970s. Baton-shape luminescent hour and minute hands burst from the heart of this blue-tone fan alongside the slim central seconds hand which glides above the facetted applied indices coated with Super-LumiNova®. The date display appears at 6 o’ clock. The 39mm case houses the self-winding 8900 calibre with Co-Axial escapement approved to METAS thorough standards (hence the name “Co-Axial Master Chronometer”) and brings the time and date functions to life. Price: 6,800 CHF

Excalibur Table Ronde II

The star of the Genevan watchmaker’s timepieces has, like in 2013, brought the Arthurian legend of the Knights of the Round Table back to life from the 5th century. The spirit of Merlin, Paimpoint Forest and King Arthur radiates from 12 sculpted bronze figurines standing around a black jade disc engraved with Celtic patterns. Each 6.5mm tall knight stands on a ring of tiles with his helmet in his left hand and his sword acts as a time marker. Sword-shape hour and minute hands burst from the centre of the famous dial and are brought to life by the RD821 calibre inside the 45mm white gold case enclosed by a notched bezel. The self-winding movement also provides a 48-hour power reserve. The caseback bears Merlin’s oath and a blue lacquered shield with three crowns. Price upon request

HERMÈS – Slim d’Hermès Perspective Cavalière

This 2D design technique has been around since the 16th century and was used by military mapmakers. The Parisian brand has used this very technique on one of its famous silk scarves called “Perspective Cavalière” which is closely bound to the horse riding world. The same pattern has moved from the neck to the wrist and its bold, colourful shapes adorn the white gold and champlevé enamelled dial on the Slim model, the latest from the Hermès watch collections. Four combinations of vibrant hues (Klein blue, indigo, navy and turquoise, scarlet, burgundy and aubergine, pink, peach, grey, yellow, black and white) are each limited to 6 numbered pieces. The dials form architectural letters above which two silver hour and minute hands glide. Hermès’ own ultra-thin self-winding H1950 calibre brings the time functions to life from inside the 39.5mm white gold case. Price: 75,000 CHF

ZENITH – El Primero Chronomaster 1969 Tribute to The Rolling Stones

When two legendary beasts – one reigning over rock ‘n’ roll since 1962 and the other presiding over the watch world – join forces, the result is mind-blowing. 150 years of expertise from Le Locle-based Zenith (whose self-winding El Primero chronograph calibre was born in 1969) and The Rolling Stones’ musical talent have gone into the oversize (45mm diameter) titanium case with a “Paint it black” DLC-coating. The black dial is partially openworked between 9 and 11 o’ clock on the small seconds and features facetted indices with a black luminescent coating. The hour and minute hands also have a black luminescent coating and are shaped like Keith Richards’ Fender Telecaster guitar. The blue minute and hour counters stand at 3 and 6 o’ clock. All the functions are brought to life by the El Primero 4061 calibre which you can see through the sapphire glass caseback. Price: 12,900 CHF

North Flag

2015 is a landmark year for Genevan watchmaker Tudor. The company, which was founded in 1936 by Hans Wildorf (the founder of Rolex born in 1905), unveiled its first own brand calibre at Baselworld. This self-winding MT5621 movement has been entirely made by the brand and is COSC-certified. It brings to life the hours, minutes and seconds, date display (3 o’ clock) and power reserve indicator (approximately 70 hours). The new calibre has made its presence felt in the Tudor collections and nestles in a new timepiece’s edgy 40mm steel case. Its name brings to mind adventures on unchartered territory and Polar expeditions: North Flag. The matt black dial has white luminescent indices and hands. The minute track running around the chapter ring is also white. The bright yellow on the central seconds hand, 5 minute intervals and power reserve indicator provides a pop of colour. Price: 3’400 CHF (leather strap) – 3’500 CHF (steel bracelet)

HARRY WINSTON – Premier Shinde

His business was already 20 years old and his name was world famous when Harry Winston, nicknamed “The King of Diamonds”, hired the Indian jeweller and designer Ambaji Venkateshwara Shinde as head of design in 1962. He brought his signature creativity and Eastern touch to Winston jewellery including three pieces which have inspired the New York brand’s watchmakers 50 years on. The sparkling gold enamelled dial on this limited edition Premier (50 available) features a gold twisted thread whose loops form oval shapes. Some of them are paved with 3 marquise-cut diamonds reminiscent of a tiara. Two dauphine-shape hour and minute hands burst from the dazzling piece brought to life by the HW2008 calibre. The self-winding movement lies in the 36mm rose gold case paved with 57 brilliant-cut diamonds. Price upon request
harrywinston.com