Monthly Archives: June 2014

Avenger Blackbird

Breitling

Is this watch worth of its superhero name? Undoubtedly! Why though? Its black masked avenger looks to start off with. Then there’s the robust and raw case with its striking 48mm diameter which, despite appearances, is lightweight and resistant because it’s made from titanium. The curve of the lugs has been redesigned to better hug the wrist. A unidirectional ratcheted rotating bezel features a light marker and an engraved scale around the midnight black dial. The phosphorescent hour indices punctuate the slim white minute track as two luminescent hands and red-tipped central seconds fly above. The white-on-black date display is framed by a white trim at 3 o’ clock. This blackbird’s time and date functions are brought to life by a self-winding COSC-certified Breitling 17 calibre. Price: 4’710 CHF

PATEK PHILIPPE – Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph réf. 5990/1A

Patek Philippe

There have been three defining moments in the Nautilus model’s history: its birth in 1976, the creation of its chronograph version in 2006 and the launch of its “complete” model in 2014. It’s complete because the new Nautilus has two fantastic complex functions: the flyback chronograph and the dual time zone with dual day/night indicator. Two hands glide over luminescent indices on the black 3D dial to showcase these features. One openwork display tells the time at home and a “closed” one displays local time with their respective indicators at 3 and 9 o’ clock. The second time zone is set using the +/- pushers at 8 and 10 o’ clock. The 60 minute totaliser sits at 6 o’ clock whilst the date hand lies at 12 o’ clock. All these functions are brought to life by the new self-winding CH 28-520 C FUS calibre housed in the heart of the 40.5mm steel case. Price: 47’000 CHF

Heritage Diver

Longines

Based on the model designed in the 70s by Longines, the 2014 version of the Heritage Diver comes in two automatic versions: one with three hands and the other with a chronograph. Both come in a 43mm cushion-shaped case with a brushed steel top and polished sides. The crown, bezel and case back have been screwed down for improved water resistance. Both models have a black face punctuated by indices and hands coated in luminescent material and two silver-tone counters (30 minutes at 9 o’ clock and 60 minutes at 3 o’ clock) on the chronograph model. The date display is at 6 or 3 o’ clock depending on the model. The central seconds is in red on the chronograph whilst red features on the minute hand on the other model. Both pieces have an interior chapter ring numbered 0-60 and a minute track marked out by splashes of red. The crown at 2 o’ clock on the case enables it to turn both ways. Price: 3’200 CHF (chronograph) – 2’100 CHF (three hands)

Chronofighter Oversize Black Arrow

Graham

“Black Arrow” is the name of a British rocket from the 60s and 70s used to put satellites into orbit. It’s also the name of a tactical shooter video game which features a military-style hostage rescue unit. But more importantly, “Black Arrow” is the name of the new Chronofighter Oversize, a self-winding watch whose steel and black PVD 47mm case has a black carbon trigger on the side to activate the fast start/stop function. The dial features a silkscreen camouflage print in khaki, sand or grey and a telemetric scale on the chapter ring; the hours and minutes are in large Arabic numerals with equally large hands coated in black Super LumiNova. The date appears in a display at 8 o’ clock whilst the 30-minute chronograph counter and small seconds stand at 6 and 3 o’ clock. Price: 6,900 CHF

Geophysic® 1958

Jaeger Lecoultre

Geophysics, the study of the Earth’s physical properties, was at its peak in 1958 which has gone down in history as the “International Geophysical Year” (IGY). At the time, scientific research carried out by several nations was supported by Jaeger-LeCoultre namely through its Geophysic® chronometer: an accurate, reliable, and anti-magnetic timepiece. The 2014 model comes in a steel or rose gold 38.5mm case housing a self-winding 898/1 calibre made in the Vallée de Joux. On the subtly sandy white dial there’s a slim black minute track and 8 hour indices separated by the figures 3, 6, 9 and 12. The indices are rhodium-plated on the steel model and gold-plated on the rose gold model. Two sword-shaped hands coated in luminescent material point to the hours and minutes whilst a long central second hand counts down the seconds. Price: 8’400 CHF (steel) – 18’400 CHF (rose gold)

Quickster Chrono Football

Tissot

The whistle has blown, the 22 players are poised on the football pitch and you’re ready to shout “Goaaal!” at your TV screen. If you’re among the supporters who want to get even more involved in a match, the Quickster Chrono Football watch is perfect for you. The watch enables you to time the match (half time, extra time and stoppage time) using its many counters. Just push the button at 2 o’ clock on the side of the 42mm steel case at the first whistle to start timing the first half, second half and restart in case of extra time. The counter at 2 o’ clock on the silver-tone dial states the match time whilst the seconds are in another counter at 10 o’ clock and the large minute hand lies in the middle. In addition to this function, the quartz movement brings to life the central hours and minutes, the seconds at 6 o’ clock and the date display at 4 o’ clock. Price: 385 CHF

Senator Manual Winding Skeletonized Edition

Glashutte Original

Renowned for being understated, the German brand in the Swatch Group’s “luxury and prestige” range has 165 years of watchmaking prowess running through its veins. It stands out for its reliable timepieces whose design is founded on the values of harmony, beauty and purity. As a case in point, the lack of dial on the Senator Skeletonized Edition showcases the manual wind movement which has been painstakingly carved and hand-engraved. Housed in the heart of a 42mm rose gold case, cogs and components appear in the centre of the watch as blue-toned hour and minute hands spin above it. A black minute track with Roman numerals on an ivory ring surrounds the dial. The 49.18 calibre made by Glashütte Original and housed in the Senator case brings the time functions to life and has a 40-hour power reserve. Price: 38’200 CHF

Patrimony Contemporaine ultra-plate 1731

Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin is a name which makes the amateurs and the neophytes of the watchmaking industry dream. Because the Genovese house has filled people’s eyes and hearts with wonder for 258 years, it is thus natural that we fell in love with the Patrimony Contemporaine ultra-thin calibre 1731. Under its elegant red gold silhouette and silver face a world of watch making complexity is hidden. Indeed, presented in a case with a diameter of 41mm, the dial has applied indices, a pearl timer as well as a small second one placed between 8 and 9 o’clock. However, the pure aesthetics do not reveal the smoothness of its (3.90 mm thick) minute repeater movement, the calibre 1731, which has taken four years to develop. Upon request, and thanks to the push buttons on the left hand side of the case, this timepiece strikes the hours, quarter hours and minutes with a crystalline sound for its holder’s greatest pleasure. Price: 400’000 CHF

Petite Lange 1 “Soirée”

A.Lange&Sohne

About twenty years ago the family-run Glashütte arose from the ashes following the war and the division of Germany to unveil its first collection which included the Lange1 model. The Saxon company is bringing out a completely mechanical and feminine take on its star product. The daintily named Petite Lange1 “Soirée” has veiled its mother-of-pearl face in chocolate tones framed by a rose gold bezel paved with 52 brilliant-cut diamonds. Its dial displays the hours and minutes off-centre at 9 o’ clock, the small seconds (with stop seconds) at 4.30, power reserve at 3 o’ clock and a large double date display on a white background at 1.30. The 36mm rose gold case houses the L901.4 calibre: a manual-wind mechanical movement made by A.Lange & Söhne whose power reserve lasts approximately 72 hours. The model is also available in white mother-of-pearl and paved rose gold. Price: 51,700 CHF

Oyster Perpetual Milgauss

Rolex

Magnetic fields have long been the mechanical watch’s arch enemy. In 1956 Rolex declared war on them when it launched the Oyster Perpetual Milgauss designed to withstand up to 1000 gauss (hence the name) whilst being reliable and accurate. Different versions of the timepiece have appeared over the years and the 2014 model comes in a 40mm steel case with a green sapphire crystal screen housing the automatic 3131 calibre. Made in-house by Rolex and COSC-certified, this model is protected by an internal shield and made up of paramagnetic components. It is therefore unaffected by magnetic fields and brings to life time functions and a 48-hour power reserve. The indices and hour and minute hands are coated in Chromalight – the blue-toned luminescent material designed by Rolex – whilst the orange minute track and lightning-shaped second hand stand out on the electric blue dial. Price: 7800 CHF