Monthly Archives: August 2014

CHOPARD – L.U.C Tourbillon QF Fairmined

The luxury world is much more than a product finished to an impeccable standard. It’s a state of mind. In an industry which hasn’t stopped growing for over 2 decades, eco-friendly and responsible brands like Chopard are few and far between. This year the Meyrin-based watchmaker has unveiled a tourbillon whose entire case (crown included) is made out of “Fairmined” gold which is small amounts of gold extracted from artisan Latin American mines. The 43mm case houses a manual-wind L.U.C 02.13L calibre with a 9-day power reserve (displayed at 12 o’ clock on the dial) and brings to life the hour and minute functions (in the centre) and small seconds (at 6 o’ clock). Large gilded Roman hour numerals and the slim white minute track lie beneath two gold dauphine hands all displayed on a grey ruthenium sunray satin-finish dial. Price: 138,980 CHF

Jazzmaster Viewmatic Skeleton

We may well have been told how an automatic movement works but seeing it before our eyes is always a magical mechanical moment. Most modern watches have an open back to showcase the calibre inside but you need to take the watch off your wrist to see the show. Hamilton’s Jazzmaster Viewmatic has solved this problem with an openwork dial showcasing its skeleton movement. The movement in the 40mm steel case brings to life the hours, minutes and central seconds. The display in the middle of the dial is surrounded by two anthracite and grey rings bearing the brand name, model and minute track respectively. The hour indices overlap the rings and lie below three hands; the hour and minute hands and indices are all coated in LumiNova® for improved visibility in the dark. Price: 1,115 CHF

Aeroscope Chronographe

The Chaux-de-Fonds-based watch brand has its own take on the word Aeroscope: an expert blend of strength and sophistication twinned with the perfect combination of technique and design all housed in a titanium body. The 44mm cushion-shaped case is coated in black DLC as is the round bezel engraved with a painted white tachymeter. The case houses a self-winding mechanical movement (the JR66 calibre) which brings to life the time functions (hours and minutes in the middle of the dial and small seconds at 3 o’ clock), chronograph (central seconds, 30 minute counter at 9 o’ clock and 12 hour counter at 6 o’ clock) and date functions (display at 4.30). The minute track lies on the chapter ring around the black honeycomb dial. The silver-tone hour indices and Arabic numerals, skeleton hour and minute hands all have a luminescent coating. The sole touch of colour comes from the large scarlet seconds hand. Price: 5,400 CHF

Ballon Bleu ultra-thin

The Ballon Bleu is the height of finesse for Parisian brand Cartier. This minimalist watch with curves in all the right places launched in 2007 and is now even more svelte than usual with a 6.90mm thick case. The 40mm rose gold case houses a manual-wind mechanical movement made by Cartier. The 430 MC calibre brings to life the hours and minutes. The dial features large gilded Roman numerals and a minute track. The integrated crown nestled in a domed arch nudges the indices deeper into the dial at 3 o’ clock. As you’d expect from the Ballon Bleu collection, the winder is topped by the famous blue ball. The time is on a lustre dial which means it has been guillochéd by hand then coated in enamel for a lightly engraved and bright anthracite surface. Price: 17,500 CHF

Colt Automatic

Breitling’s Colt, an icon and bestseller for over 30 years, has been given a makeover for 2014. It still has its military look but its dial adorned with concentric grooves now comes in several colours: “Volcano” black, “Mariner” blue and “Stratus” silver. The date display alone at 3 o’ clock has a white background. Two large luminescent hour and minute hands glide over equally large luminescent indices and a minute track. A slim red-tipped central seconds hand points to the seconds. The COSC-certified self-winding Breitling 17 calibre brings to life the time and date functions. The movement nestles in the heart of the 44mm steel case topped by a rotating graduated bezel and the four markers Breitling is famous for. The Colt collection also features chronograph, quartz and ladies’ watches. Price: 2,790 CHF (rubber strap) – 2,850 CHF (leather strap) – 3,260 (steel bracelet)

Avigation

“Broad arrow” was created in 1544 and traditionally used in heraldry. The symbol was engraved on munitions, military trunks and more to show that they belonged to the English government. The watch brand Longines has brought the heraldic symbol back to feature on the dial of the new version of the 1949 model designed for the British army: Avigation. The black lacquer round face features 11 white Arabic hour numerals with Super LumiNova® coated rhodium-plated hands; it also features the date at 3 o’ clock and a second time zone in the centre in red. Its time and date functions are brought to life by the self-winding mechanical movement in the heart of the 44mm steel case. The L704.2 calibre provides a 48-hour power reserve and is protected from magnetic fields by electrical steel. Price: 2,100 CHF

Montre d’aviateur chronographe “The Last Flight”

The French have all read and enjoyed Le Petit Prince by famous pilot and writer Antoine de Saint-Exupéry. The poetic and philosophical story published in 1943 is an integral part of French culture. However, few people know that its author died during a reconnaissance flight off the coast of Marseille in 1944. In tribute to Saint-Exupéry’s last flight, IWC has designed a special edition available in three different versions. The watch features a 46mm chocolate brown ceramic case housing a self-winding in-house calibre which brings to life the time functions in the centre, small seconds at 6 o’ clock, chronograph hour and minute counter at 12 o’ clock and date at 6 o’ clock. These features are displayed on a chocolate dial to match the case with rhodium or gold-plated (subject to model) Super LumiNova® coated Arabic hour numerals and hands. Price: 14,500 CHF (ceramic and titanium) – 24,000 CHF (ceramic and red gold) – 32,000 CHF (ceraminc and platinium)

Seamaster Aqua Terra 150m Master Co-Axial

Two worlds collide: “aqua” and “terra” mean “water” and “earth” in Latin. This aptly named Seamaster is as comfortable in one (water-resistant to 150m) as it is the other (its timeless style matches any fashion trend). It is equipped with a self-winding, anti-magnetic Omega 8500 Co-Axial calibre which brings to life the hours, minutes and seconds in the middle plus the date at 3 or 6 o’ clock (subject to model).  The case is available in a choice of 2 sizes (38.5 or 41.5mm diameter) and 2 metals (steel or steel and yellow or rose gold). There is also a variety of dials to choose from: white mother-of-pearl dotted with 12 diamond indices for feminine pieces or streaked with the famous Teck vertical pattern (in black, silver, blue, grey or champagne) with Super LumiNova® coated gold or rhodium-plated indices and hands. The three hands’ power reserve lasts approximately 60 hours. Price: from 5,300 to 38,300 CHF

Heritage Black Bay

Tudor, founded in 1946, has delved into its exciting history and been inspired to design the Heritage Black Bay, a watch which brings together the past and the future. As a matter of fact, its muses were several diving models dating from 1954, 1958 and 1969. From the powerful matt blue on the graduated rotating bezel to the “snowflake” hour, minute and second hands gliding over the black dial, the result is aesthetically impeccable. Water-resistant to depths of 200m, the 41mm steel case plays on polished and satin-finish surfaces; it houses a self-winding mechanical TUDOR 2824 movement which provides a 38-hour power reserve and brings the time functions to life. The silver-tone indices with a white luminescent coating on the dial are depicted by three distinct shapes (triangle at 12, rectangles at 3, 6 and 9 o’ clock and dots) which help the diver to tell the time. Price: 2’950 CHF (leather strap) – 3’250 CHF (on steel)

Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Expedition Charles Darwin”

Gazing through the bronze peepholes on board HMS Beagle, the revolutionary scientist Charles Darwin travelled to the Galapagos Islands in 1835 to study their unique flora and fauna. 180 years have passed and IWC is paying tribute to the expedition and the work of the British naturalist with an Aquatimer model. Solid and waterproof to 300m, the 44mm case is made of bronze, a highly rust-resistant metal alloy; it features an outer rotating bezel whilst the chapter ring features a graduated inner bezel. The self-winding in-house calibre brings to life the time functions (hours and minutes in the middle, small seconds at 6 o’ clock), chronograph (central seconds and 1-hour counter at 12 o’ clock) and date display (at 3 o’ clock). The movement provides a 68-hour power reserve. Most of the features on the dial, namely the indices and hands, have a luminescent coating. Price: 10,800 CHF