Monthly Archives: December 2016

tag heuer carrera lady closeup

TAG HEUER – CARRERA LADY STEEL BLUE DIAL

ULTRA-FEMININE, SUBLIMELY-SPORTIVE 

TAG Heuer sets its end-of-year focus on up-to-the-minute blue, the soft warmth of rose gold and twinkling diamonds to tempt the ladies.

Highly inspired by car racing, by speed and a passion for sports, the Carrera timepiece was first issued back in 1963. Over the years it has become an acknowledged fine-watchmaking icon and has also been imagined in a variation reserved exclusively for feminine wrists. Carrera Lady. Today, TAG Heuer proposes this watch dressed in blue, with delicate touches of rose gold and a host of diamonds.

tag heuer carrera lady closeup

Released under the name of Carrera Lady Steel Blue Dial, this new 100-metre water-resistant timepiece is available in two versions; the first stylishly-classical, fashioned in polished steel and, the second –also in steel – enhanced with a rim-studded bezel comprising 72 precious stones totalling 0.70 carats. Both pieces are powered by the ETA 955 quartz movement set in a 39 mm-diameter case.

The sunrayed dial, designed in a blue, evoking a blend of duck and peacock blues, displays a white minute tracker around the flange. The hour chapter is adorned with rose gold indexes highlighted with luminescent striations. Two golden, phosphorescent baton-type hands, set in the centre of the dial, indicating the hours and minutes are completed by a direct drive. The date, featured in a transparent aperture at 3 o’clock, is black-figured on a white-backdrop to ensure optimal reading.

The Carrera Lady Steel Blue Dial is available with a tone-on-tone blue leather strap decorated with lozenge-shaped checkerboard topstitching or with a bracelet made of pure steel links.

Price: CHF1,700 (steel on leather) – CHF1,850 (steel on steel) – CHF3,750 (steel, diamond-set on leather) – CHF3,900 (steel diamond-set on steel)

By Sharmila Bertin

girard perregaux paureato 34

GIRARD-PERREGAUX – LAUREATO 34

STREAMLINED ELEGANCE

La Chaux-de-Fonds manufacture showcases its harmoniously-sized ladies’ watch, proposed on three classical colours.

The Laureato timepiece may have been created back in 1975 but it hasn’t aged a bit! Now a mature 41 year-old, it continues to cultivate its classical, though not in the least boring, style and its ever-so strong identity. To celebrate the arrival of the New Year, Girard-Perregaux has designed a watch for today’s woman, available in three choices of gold and three dial shades, which can be worn to highlight the strict businesswoman look or, on the contrary, to eclipse the casual-wear look of a garment, or even to enhance a cocktail dress. In short, an incredibly versatile timepiece that doesn’t just tell the time but is also a definite ‘must-have’ partner when it comes to daily style.

girard perregaux paureato 34

As its name suggests, the Laureato 34’s case diameter measures 34 mm and it is 7.75 mm thick. This elegant fineness was achieved thanks to the GP013100 quartz movement nestling in the heart of this metal case. The case is proposed in steel, in rose gold or a harmonious two-tone (silvered case middle and bezel, with golden crown and central element). Just like mix & match clothing, the Laureato 34 is an exquisite blend of styles that features a horizontally-brushed case middle and a polished ring crowned by an octagonal bezel strewn with 56 brilliant-cut diamonds (0.82 carats).

The dial disc, edged with a flange that embraces the minute tracker, is decorated with the pyramidal Clou de Paris motif. It is available in three discreetly-sophisticated tints: slate grey, silvered opaline and blue. A pair of baton-style hands, highlighted with a luminescent line, are set in the centre of this three-dimensional textured face. And, last but not least, the date is displayed in an aperture at 3 o’clock.

 Price on request

 By Sharmila Bertin

baume et mercier clifton closeup

BAUME MERCIER – CLIFTON GMT POWER RESERVE

A GENTLEMAN TIME-TRAVELLER

The Geneva-based, soft-priced, luxury brand is absolutely clear about its intentions for 2017: to spark our desire for travel

Boasting the design codes of a 1950-crafted timepiece that is currently kept in the Baume & Mercier Museum, Clifton is a collection of classical-styled watches which, over the years, have integrated an increasing number of “useful” complications. A myriad of features have been added to the rather “simple”, historic 2013 Clifton, including a chronograph, GMT, day/date, moon phase and power reserve indicator, among others. For 2017, Baume & Mercier present us with a timepiece that incorporates two of the aforementioned complications: Clifton GMT Power Reserve.

baume et mercier clifton closeup

This latest-released Clifton GMT Power Reserve sports a royal blue dial with a sun-brushed finish enhanced with beams radiating out from the centre of the disc to the rim which embraces a fine white minute tracker. The hour chapter is adorned with rhodium-plated graphical teardrop indexes and exquisitely-rounded Arabic numerals. Two tapered silvered hands and a silvered direct-drive, poised at the heart of the blue dial, indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. The black-figured, white-backdrop date is displayed in a silver-white-framed aperture at 3 o’clock. An arc-shaped counter at 12 o’clock, completed by a tiny double-edged, two-tone hand, features the second time zone. The 0 to 40-graduated power reserve indicator is set in the lower half of the dial at 6 o’clock (although the timepiece actually has 42 hours autonomy).

The Clifton GMT Power Reserve nestling in a 43 mm-diameter steel case is water-resistant to 50 metres. The four-point screwed caseback with sapphire porthole unveils a self-winding Soprod 9035 calibre that drives the functions and complications featured in this newly-released Baume & Mercier timepiece.

Price: 3,700 EUR

By Sharmila Bertin

ulysse nardin diver chronograph artemis racing with caseback

ULYSSE NARDIN – DIVER CHRONOGRAPH ARTEMIS RACING

SWEDISHOURS

Official partner of the Artemis Racing team, the Le Locle watchmaker proudly displays the colours of the Swedish flag on a limited edition chronograph.

A Swedish racing catamaran seems to fly over the waves, its sailing team guided by an Australian skipper and a Le Locle watchmaker renowned for its marine chronometers since 1846. Made by Ulysse Nardin, these are the three ingredients to the Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing’s recipe for success.

Formed by businessman, sailing amateur and multiple trophy winner Torbjörn Törqvist, the Swedish Artemis Racing team has been conquering the waves for ten years. A challenger in the 2017 and 35th edition of the America’s Cup in Bermuda, Artemis Racing is counting on the support of Swiss watch brand Ulysse Nardin. And their partnership is based in part on the creation of 250 limited edition timepieces that proudly bear their Swedish colours.

ulysse nardin diver chronograph artemis racing with caseback

The Diver Chronograph Artemis Racing sports a 45.8mm diameter steel case covered in protective navy blue rubber to protect the screwdown crown and chronograph pushers whilst the blue rubber surrounding the notched rotating bezel on this sturdy timepiece features a wave pattern evoking an ocean swell. On board, the UN-35 automatic calibre powers a plethora of chronograph functions and supplies a 42-hour power reserve. Guaranteed waterproof to 200m in depth, the screwdown case back features a steel medallion engraved with a silhouette of the Artemis Racing catamaran.

The blue dial on this Ulysse Nardin boasts a 3D reproduction of a regatta in full sail. In the centre, two large and luminescent openwork sword hands display hours and minutes, with a small second hand at 3 o’clock showing the hour. Also in the centre, a large second hand with a yellow tip tracks seconds. Sporting the stylized Greek goddess Artemis and bow logo representing the racing team, a counter at 9 o’clock tracks minutes as well. The name of the Swedish sailing team appears prominently in the centre of the hour counter at 3 o’clock whilst the aperture at 4:30 displays a perpetual calendar.

Price available upon request

By Sharmila Bertin

iwc aquatimer chronograph sharks both views

IWC – AQUATIMER CHRONOGRAPH EDITION “SHARKS”

TICKING SHARK

Because the company cares about the marine environment, IWC continues to raise awareness through its timepieces and with this diving watch designed for underwater exploration in particular.

On a personal note, sharks have fascinated me since the age of 7. In fact, I can name nearly every species from memory. But, until I started doing some in-depth research on Michael Muller for this IWC article, I wasn’t even aware that he was known for his celebrity portraits of actors, musicians and athletes long before garnering acclaim as one of today’s premier underwater photographers. To me, Michael Muller was above all an American shark whisperer, born in 1970, who shunned the cage in favour of his camera, capturing hammerhead sharks and whales in his lens and putting the primary focus on great whites.

iwc aquatimer chronograph sharks both views

Mislabelled as terrifying monsters since the original Jaws in 1975, these huge sharks have unfortunately now fallen victim to overfishing. Among other parts, their fins are quite sought-after and the complete democratization of mass commercial fishing has reduced their food supply considerably. As protecting our oceans is one of the primary IWC missions, it was a natural choice to create the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Sharks” diving watch. Available in a limited edition of 500, each timepiece also comes with a signed copy of Michael Muller’s book entitled Sharks, packaged in a rusted metal cage replica.

As its name suggests, the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Sharks” is a diving chronograph that’s water-resistant to 30 bars, or 300 meters in depth, as substantiated by its robust 44mm diameter stainless steel case and double internal/external bezel for tracking dive time. Also in stainless steel, the case back features a medallion with an engraving of a school of hammerhead sharks.

A luminescent steel grey dial sports a large chapter ring with the renowned rotating internal bezel, luminescent elements displaying the dive time and must-have triangular marker. Two large luminescent sword hands sweep from the centre to display hours and minutes, the watch face also featuring markers and minute tracking. Elapsed seconds are shown in a black counter at 6 o’clock and the date is displayed at 3 o’clock. Sporting a discreet arrow tip, the central second hand displays seconds whilst a minute counter at 12 o’clock displays minutes.

The display features and functions of the Aquatimer Chronograph Edition “Sharks” are powered by the proprietary IWC 89365 calibre and the chronograph features flyback, automatic winding and 68-hour power reserve.

Price available upon request

By Sharmila Bertin

cartier trait eclat draw

CARTIER – TRAIT D’ECLAT

A CRIMSON RIBBON

Marking the end of 2016, the Parisian maison draws on its invaluable expertise to introduce a luxury watch laced with rubies and diamonds.

In India, the raspberry pink to very nearly brown burgundy corundum, or ruby, is considered the “king of precious gems”. Its occasionally fiery orange hue evokes an inextinguishable flame and the crimson red “blood of Christ” closely associated with Catholicism. Love, loyalty, passion…its symbolic significance is as far-reaching as its palette of colours is extensive. Cartier has had a soft spot for the ruby since the start of the 20th century, crafting dazzling corundum adornments for maharajas and a royal ruby tiara for the sublime Princess Grace of Monaco (1929-1982) to creating today’s sumptuous Trait d’Eclat timepiece.

cartier trait eclat draw

Bridging the gap between a bracelet and a secret watch, the Trait d’Eclat crimson ribbon of rubies encircles the wrist in a loving embrace. Fifteen red oval-cut Mozambique rubies, totalling 24.93 carats, trace out a number 6 in a looping flourish that is almost calligraphic in form. Sinuous rectangular baguette diamonds wind around this band of burgundy gems to complement the numeral, all supported by a flexible white gold bracelet swathed in additional diamonds.

The coiling lace of rubies and diamonds enfold the dainty teardrop watchcase. And, resembling a pear-shaped diamond itself, the faceted crystal protects the diamond-sheathed dial. Two black sword hands in the centre discreetly display the time, powered by manually wound Calibre 101 mechanical movement.

Price available upon request

By Sharmila Bertin

breguet tradition dame 7038 closeup

BREGUET – TRADITION DAME

A FEMININE MECHANISM

Just a few months before Baselworld 2017, Breguet has unveiled a timepiece crowned with pink gold, mother-of-pearl and diamonds for the greater pleasure of its women customers.

The Tradition collection by Breguet, which was first launched over ten years ago, in 2005 to be precise, has an aesthetic quality inspired by the famous subscription watches made by Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823), one of the greatest craftsmen in the history of watchmaking. These timepieces, known as subscription watches, because a deposit was needed to order one – a system that was very much in vogue in the 19th century, and not only for watches – had a simple appearance, and were driven by a simple movement including a large central barrel, and all at an affordable price. Today, the Tradition collection, paying homage to the great watchmaker, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is the epitome of quality watchmaking, with a perfect mechanism superbly displayed on the watch face. Although technique is considered as a mainly masculine preserve, the Tradition Dame model puts paid to this received idea.

breguet tradition dame 7038 closeup

Because in line with the Tradition collection, the pink gold case body with a diameter of 37mm is beautifully fluted, like the grooved crown featuring a synthetic ruby. To make it even more feminine, a bezel covered in 68 brilliant-cut diamonds completes the watch setting. On the dial, the plate and rhodium-plated, frosted bridges are discrete enough to leave the hours and minutes as the central focus. The hours and minutes are offset at 12 o’clock and embodied by two gold Breguet open-tipped hands moving across a white, mother-of-pearl disc engraved in a Clous de Paris pattern. The hour rim is made up of black Arabic numbers, known as Breguet figures. Retrograde seconds with a gilded hand are set at 10 o’clock, directly on the plate.

Placed at the centre of the watch, like in subscription watches and partially hidden by the hour and minute dial, the barrel is engraved with a floral pattern similar to a chrysanthemum with a large number of long, rounded petals. This pattern is repeated on the gold rotor, unveiled by the sapphire caseback.

The new, pink gold Tradition Dame timepiece is driven by the Breguet 505SR calibre, an automatic mechanical movement providing a power reserve of 50 hours.

Price on request. breguet.com

By Sharmila Bertin

hublot big bang sugar skull cobalt pink closeup

HUBLOT – BIG BANG SUGAR SKULL

A FUSION OF SWISS EXPERTISE 

Masters in the art of melding materials, Hublot is now going further in this direction and merging three different worlds into one. Or rather two: a chronograph and a three-hand watch.

Each new piece made by Hublot comes as a surprise, since the Nyon-based watchmakers can generally be found where you least expect them. And on this occasion, it was on the heights of Zermatt, the chic Valais ski resort in Switzerland, facing the impressive Matterhorn, that Hublot introduced two new watches in the Big Bang collection. Named the Big Bang Sugar Skull – sounding something like the name of a rock group – they are both similar and different, but each represents a blend of three typically Swiss worlds: watchmaking, skiing and embroidery – a trio sharing the same three values of passion, patience and performance.

hublot big bang sugar skull cobalt pink closeup

The second watch presented by Hublot, the Big Bang Sugar Skull Blue Cobalt, is a black chronograph tinted in electric blue. The dial also shows a polished skull adorned with climbing plants. But unlike the previous model, the black disc reveals the self-winding movement, the HUB4214 calibre, which drives the hour functions (the hours and minutes at the centre of the dial and the seconds at 9 o’clock), the calendar function (the date at 4.30) and the chronograph (seconds at the centre and the minute counter at 3 o’clock). The whole mechanism is housed in a solid case measuring 44mm in diameter and 14.70mm thick, made of black micro-beaded ceramics.

Both the Big Bang Sugar Skull watches have been made in 50 pieces, and have been designed in collaboration with AK, the ski brand founded by Aldo Kuonen in 1996, and later taken over by his children Francesca and Marco. AK is famous for its sturdy skis made in limited quantities, and manufactured in layers of wood, rubber, steel, fibre glass and carbon. A blend of materials that is similar to the fusion that Hublot has been carrying out for years on its timepieces. Each Big Bang Sugar Skull comes with a pair of black AK skis, decorated with the watchmaker’s logo and the famous flowered calavera.

Price: 24,900 CHF (blue version) – 19,900 CHF (pink version)

By Sharmila Bertin

breiling navitimer 01 limited edition closeup

BREITLING – NAVITIMER 01 LIMITED EDITION

AUTOMATIC PILOT MODE 

Breitling’s great classic is now available in a limited edition of 1000 pieces blending a deep black and copper-ivory tone.

The brand based in Granges in the German-speaking canton of Soleure in north-western Switzerland, and a major specialist in technical watches, has issued a new version of its Navitimer 01. A reliable and efficient instrument enjoying a solid reputation for over 60 years, Breitling’s flagship model is a must-have for pilots and anyone who loves flying. The new Navitimer 01 Limited Edition chronograph, available in 1000 pieces, renews with the aesthetic and technical codes that have brought success to its predecessors, especially the famous circular aviation slide rule adorning the dial.

breiling navitimer 01 limited edition closeup

The solid steel case is 46mm in diameter and features a rotating notched bezel. It houses the Breitling 01 calibre, an automatic winding mechanical movement, certified as a chronometer by the COSC, the Official Swiss Chronometer Testing Institute, like all the movements made by the firm from Granges. It has a power reserve of 70 hours and drives the hour, calendar and chronograph functions.

The wide chapter ring is strongly angled and hosts the famous slide rule, coloured white on a dark brown background with touches of red, which pilots find so indispensible. It encircles a black face where the markings on the chapter ring are extended. These markings are completed by an hour rim with markers topped by luminescent squares and a precise minute track. At the centre, a set of gilded hands coated with phosphorescent material display the hours and minutes, while the seconds are shown in a counter at 9 o’clock. The date is displayed in white on a black background at 4.30. As for the chronograph function, the seconds run at the centre, while the minutes and hours are shown in two counters placed at 3 and 6 o’clock respectively. These three counters are set back, lightened and tinted dark brown, like the chapter ring.

This Navitimer 01 Limited Edition is available with a leather, crocodile or black rubber strap or a steel strap with seven rows of links.

Price: 8050 CHF (with leather strap)

By Sharmila Bertin

montblanc 1858 collection automatic

MONTBLANC – 1858 AUTOMATIC DUAL TIME 1858 AUTOMATIC

WHEN BRONZE ARRIVED IN HAMBURG  

A successful gamble for Montblanc, introducing bronze into their watch collections with two models powered by self-winding movements

The 1858 collection is a homage to the famous Minerva factory established in Villeret, in the Bernese Jura, best known for its technical mastery of chronometry and its chronographs and sports timers. The watchmaking workshop, established in 1858 (the year that gives the collection its name) by the Robert family, remained independent for a long time before being bought by the Richemont group and linked to Montblanc since 2007 – Montblanc, whose watchmaking activities officially started in Le Locle in 1997. During this year, two new pieces were added to the catalogue of the Hamburg brand: 1858 Automatic Dual Time and 1858 Automatic.

montblanc 1858 collection automatic

Their undeniably retro look is accentuated by the appearance of bronze – a first in the Montblanc collections – on the fixed bezel and the movement crown and setting. This metal with its golden-brown glow is made from an alloy of several metals: a large proportion of copper (between 60 and 90%) combined with a substantial quantity of tin and aluminium, lead, and other ferrous metals. To embellish these two models, Montblanc has used a particular alloy that enables them to control the sulfidation of the bronze and create a uniform patina. The body of the 44mm-diameter case of both the 1858 Automatic Dual Time and the 1858 Automatic is made of steel.

The 1858 Automatic Dual Time version is powered by the MB 29.19 calibre, a self-winding movement that runs the time-keeping, second time zone and the date functions, while providing a 42-hour power reserve. This watch, principally designed for travellers, has three large silver cathedral-style hands in the centre of its black dial that are rimmed with beige Super-LumiNova®. One of them is skeletonized, and shows the time at home. So as not to overload the dial, the seconds are displayed off-centre in a counter placed at the 6 o’clock position, coupled with a date window.

In the 1858 Automatic model, its movement – the automatic MB 24.16 calibre – powers the essential time-keeping features, that is the hours and minutes shown by two large hands that lie above the hour marker which is composed of luminous Arabic numerals.

These two watches are supplied with a leather strap in nut-brown calf-skin with creamy-white top-stitching by the lugs and a steel buckle.

Price: 4,990 EUR (Automatic Dual Time) – 3,490 EUR (Automatic)

By Sharmila Bertin