With its emerald cut, the favourite shape of the “jeweller to the stars“, the newcomer to the Harry Winston Emerald collection proudly displays a yellow-gold case highlighted with diamonds.
Nicknamed the “king of diamonds“, the New Yorker Harry Winston (1896-1978), a jeweller and the founder of the empire of the same name in 1932, certainly had a passion for precious stones, but also for emerald-cut diamonds. They have a rectangular shape with cut-off corners and step-cut sides to better catch the light and show off the gem. For the Harry Winston brand, this shape has not only become a signature element, but also a watch collection: Emerald. Here, yellow gold has made its come-back to the world of watchmaking, after long being ignored in favour of rose gold – giving this Emerald a special aura, as both vintage and modern. A combination accentuated by its size and the double-looped strap.
Shaped like an emerald-cut diamond, the yellow-gold case is 27.8 x 24mm and 6.10mm thick. It houses a quartz movement that is much appreciated for its accuracy and its practical aspect (no need to wind the watch in the morning or to have to reset it when it hasn’t been worn for a few days). This gold setting is enhanced by a line of 52 diamonds set on the bezel and lugs. And the crown has not been forgotten since it displays a diamond at the centre.
The anthracite-grey sunburst dial follows the outline of the case and features two stick-shaped hands discreetly displaying the hours and minutes. Three diamonds, at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, are used as hour markers, while a small gilded plate, decorated with the HW logo, is placed at 12 o’clock.
The Harry Winston Emerald watch is worn with a choice of a double-loop straps made of satin to match the dial and a tang buckle set with 11 precious stones, or a yellow-gold Milanese strap enhanced with 103 diamonds.
Price on request
By Sharmila Bertin
PRACTICAL EVERY DAY
Be on time for your appointment with style thanks to a useful feature that can be set quicker than the alarm on your smartphone.
Since 1938, Oris has been supplying pilots with watches featuring an oversized crown, making it easy to use even when wearing gloves. Over time, this element has become a design signature that can now be found on the watches in two of the brand’s collections. One of them, the Big Crown ProPilot, is noticeable for the presence of some practical instruments. The new Alarm Limited Edition, launched at the last Baselworld, continues this tradition by including an alarm, as its name suggests. The alarm can be set in 10-minute increments using a second crown between 3 and 4 o’clock. By turning the crown, you can move the central hand with an arrow tip to the time of your choice in a central disc with a circular counter. In this sub-dial, a yellow marker also indicates the date. The rest of the time information is displayed in the traditional way with the help of two hands making their way around Arabic numerals coated in Super-LumiNova®. The contrast set up against the black dial makes for excellent readability in all lighting conditions.
The watch’s 44mm-wide steel case comes with a brown leather strap. And to highlight the exclusive aspect of this limited edition of 250 pieces, it comes in a superb wooden gift box.
Price: 4,600 EUR
By Dan Diaconu
The colour of the ocean takes pride of place in the extremely classic collection made by the brand from Saint-Imier. With a range of sizes, two types of straps and three sorts of hour markers… The choice could be tricky!
In 1982, Longines unveiled the Agassiz, a watch named after its founder, Auguste Agassiz (1810-1877), who had opened a clock workshop in the Jura Bernois district 150 years before. For the brand’s 160th anniversary, ten years later, the Agassiz’s svelte body, straight, slender lugs and timeless style inspired a new model with a simple name: La Grande Classique. Its elegant silhouette free of all decorative elements meant it could transcend time without ageing and become a constant feature in the Longines catalogue. After mainly light-coloured dials (white, silver, champagne) and traditional finishes (guilloché, matt, mother-of-pearl), La Grande Classique has now gently changed direction to adopt a darker, contemporary colour: blue.
Majestically highlighted by a bright sunburst effect, the dial’s blue tone becomes even more intense when the 12 diamonds used as hour markers open up their fires. You can opt for a classic feel on the dial with long, white Roman numerals or for a more discreet style with silver hour markers. Because Longines’ strength is to offer a wide range rather than a restrictive choice. So La Grande Classique, in its blue version, comes in several different variations. The steel case exists in four different diameters, two for the most slender wrists (24 or 29 mm) and two unisex sizes (36 or 37 mm), while the bezel can be set with 36 or 44 brilliant-cut diamonds. And the two stick-shaped hands placed at the centre to show the hours and minutes are driven by a choice of a quartz or an automatic movement (the calibre L591.2, based on an ETA model and providing 40 hours of power reserve).
The cherry on the cake? La Grande Classique is worn on the wrist with an alligator leather strap matching the colour of the dial or with steel links for an even more traditional look!
Prices: From 950 CHF to 3,210 CHF
By Sharmila Bertin
EYEFUL OF BLUE
Not a revolution, but an evolution… The brand has skilfully produced an Annual Calendar model for a matchless aesthetic result that is very much in keeping with the times.
In 2010, Patek Philippe first launched its Annual Calendar 5205G-013 in a grey gold model with two variations in grey and black tones. At Baselworld 2018, the brand unveiled a new version with a subtle dial coloured blue in the centre and edging towards black near the outside. For the time information, three sub-dials are set in the arc of a circle and showing the day, date and month. At 6 o’clock, a secondary dial displays the moon phases and an extra 24 hour indicator making it easier to set the calendar. New dauphine-style lume-coated hour and minute hands move around the dial and point towards grey-gold hour markers. These design choices add a touch of modernity to an elegant and simple piece.
The 5205G-013 model replaces the previous watches in the Patek Philippe catalogue, and comes with a gloss-black alligator leather strap. The collection still includes the two rose-gold versions.
Price: 43,520 EUR patek.com
By Dan Diaconu
Jaquet Droz’s love for nature and the world around us takes the brand to the stars where the celestial bodies giving rise to meteorites are born. Three limited-edition watches have resulted from this fascination for space.
Even though today we know a little bit more about the solar system, let’s go back in time to the 18th century, when the watchmaker-magician Pierre Jaquet-Droz (1721-1790) was born. At that time, instruments used to peer up above the clouds did exist, but they were few in number and mainly reserved to the scientific elite. To look at the stars, the most simple thing to do – and this is still the case today – is to raise your eyes to the night sky and see them shine. This fascination for the immensity of space continues is still one of the greatest mysteries today and can be seen on the dial of three Grande Seconde Off-Centred Meteorite watches made by Jaquet Droz.
The Grande Seconde Off-Centred Meteorite family is available in two sizes of red-gold case – the first 39mm wide, with the optional extra of 256 diamonds, and the second 43mm. The time functions are brought to life by the automatic JD 2663.P and 2663A.P calibres, which are equipped with a red-gold rotor and a double barrel, and provide a power reserve of 68 hours.
Price: 24,550 CHF (39 mm) – 26,700 CHF (43 mm) – 33,950 CHF (39 mm jewelled) jaquet-droz.com
By Sharmila Bertin
The brand from Neuhausen am Rheinfall in northern Switzerland is known for its commitment to a timeless approach to style. It has launched two new limited editions, giving pride of place to the simplicity of the dials.
The Holy Grail for a watchmaker is to create watches with a strong personality that are easy to recognise on wrists because of the shape of the case, the strap links or the design of the dial. The watches made by H. Moser & Cie, ranging from their standard models to the Concept collection with no hour markers or logo, are undeniably easy to spot. The brand based in Neuhausen am Rheinfall in northern Switzerland continues to explore this creative vein, always pushing forward with its commitment to elegant simplicity. It has now launched two watches limited to 50 pieces for each type of gold: the Venturer Big Date Purity.
The model is available in white or rose gold, and comes in two of the most famous colours in the H. Moser & Cie catalogue, the Funky Blue, an unusual shade of blue that grows darker as it reaches the edge of the dial (an effect reminiscent of the sfumato technique) and the “smoked” grey-brown that has been a regular feature of the brand for quite a while now. On each of the two sides, discretion is the watchword. A concept that includes four stick-shaped hour markers. The gilded or silver applied indices, depending on the model, are joined by a couple of matching leaf-shaped hands for the hours and minutes. A running seconds counter at 6 o’clock rounds off the time elements. At 3 o’clock, a counter displays an oversized white date against a black background, assisted by the “Flash Calendar“ system that immediately changes the date at midnight and with bidirectional setting.
Housed in a 41.5mm-wide case with a sapphire crystal caseback, the calibre HMC100 leads the dance. The hand-wound movement with a double barrel runs at a gentle rhythm of 18,800 vibrations an hour and provides a power reserve of between 7 and 10 days.
Price: 29,900 CHF
By Sharmila Bertin
SAILING WITH THE WIND
Blending styles and materials, this limited edition gives material form to the art of fusion cherished by the Swiss watchmakers and by the grandson of Gianni Agnelli, the founder of the Italia Independent studio.
After a first limited edition unveiled in 2015, Hublot and Italia Independent, Lapo Elkan’s design agency, are pursuing their artistic collaboration with a new model, the Big Bang Unico Teak Italia Independent. This watch pays homage to the seafaring past of a major figure in Italian industry, Gianni Agnelli. The Turin businessman was a passionate fan of sailing. His boats, the Azura and the Agneta, attracted attention with their elegant designs. The hull of the Tiketitoo, a sublime 27m-long Wally yacht, had a colour between orange and gold. And in the Stealth, the winner of the Fastnet Race in 2001, carbon and composite materials were omnipresent. These multiple details are embodied on the new chronograph. The 45mm-wide case and its monopushers are made of King Gold, a gold-platinum alloy with a warm tone. The hour and minute hands, the counters and the hour markers are coated in orange lume. The bezel is made of teak wood and features an elegant ship’s bridge pattern.
At the core of this watch is a self-winding movement with a flyback feature resulting in easier use of the chronograph elements. Once fully wound, the calibre provides up to 72 hours of power reserve.
100 pieces of this Big Bang have been produced. It is available in a gift box including a pair of Italia Independent sunglasses and two straps. The first, inspired by the world of sailing, is made of rubber, with carbon fibre and Kevlar sail canvas. The second is orange and striped, and completely made of rubber.
Price: 38,900 CHF www.hublot.com
By Dan Diaconu
SHIFTING UP GEARS!
Fans of cycling and the Tour de France can now enjoy all the atmosphere of their favourite sport embodied in these new watches.
Tissot again became the official chronometer of the Tour de France in 2016 (editor’s note: as it was between 1988 and 1992), and has taken inspiration from the world of this great popular race to launch a collection of T-Race Cycling models. A lot of details in these chronographs recall the distinctive elements of a bike. So the internal bezel on the dial and the aluminium tachymetric scale represent a tyre mounted on a carbon rim. The chronograph monopushers recall brake levers, and the silicon strap and the space between the lugs look like a bicycle fork. The case back displays an engraving of the chain wheels on derailleur gears. What’s more, the watch is available in a wide range of sparkling two-colour tones evoking champion cyclists’ outfits.
The watch is not powered by pedals or a chain, but by a Swiss-made quartz movement providing all the precision needed to display the time information and the date. The calibre is housed in a 44.5mm-wide steel case with a black and grey PVD coating and with carbon fibre.
Split-time measurements are made and displayed in the traditional way. The wide hour and minute hands move around a dial designed to evoke asphalt. The T-Race Cycling is a very light watch, weighing no more than 90 grams, so can be worn on a mountain climb in the Alps or during your Sunday ride through the forest.
Price: 480 EUR www.tissotwatches.com
By Dan Diaconu
Tired of monochrome? Then choose colour! Corum has introduced some welcome changes with the watch mechanism now playing a design role.
Since 1960, the Admiral collection has sailed over fashions and trends. This pillar of the Corum brand stands out with its seafaring spirit. The new versions introduced at Baselworld 2018 continue to maintain this unique identity. So on the Admiral 45 Skeleton, you can see the famous twelve-section bezel with its twelve engraved pennants. For these new versions, as its name implies, the dial has given way to a spectacular openwork staging. The mechanical movement is of course visible, but attention particularly centres on the figures that seem to be floating. They show the date, displayed in a counter with a solid background at 6 o’clock. This “airborne” design is boosted by the range of bright colours – turquoise, yellow or red. The colours are echoed on elements of the watch case and on the central second hand. The overall result is dynamic and refreshing, and highlighted by a 45mm-wide titanium case that is water-resistant down to 300m.
Two wide dauphine-style hands move above the mechanism. They are driven by the calibre C0 082, a self-winding movement providing 42 hours of power reserve once the watch is fully wound.
To reinforce the sports-chic style, the Admiral 45 Skeleton comes with a vulcanised rubber strap in a colour matching the date counter. In the near future, Corum is planning to make bespoke models. In the meantime, seven models, each available in 288 pieces, are on offer, with three made of natural titanium and four of matt-black PVD titanium.
Price: 9,950 EUR
By Dan Diaconu
WAVES IN VOGUE
With an aesthetic style inspired by the world of the sea, this new model has all the assets to become a key element in the male wardrobe. We take a closer look.
Updating a watchmaking classic can seem like a challenge. For Breguet, the process paid off in 2017 with some cogent technical and design changes to the models in the Marine collection. The 5517 model launched at the last Baselworld includes all these new developments. You can find the new clasps on the strap, fluting on the cases and a redesigned crown. The model also stands out through the date display in a counter at 3 o’clock. To read the time elements, the brand’s trademark hands make their way around an hour rim featuring Roman numerals. In the centre of the dial, two styles are on offer, depending on the material used to make the 40mm-wide case. The titanium version has a sunburst slate-grey colour, while the white gold and rose gold models feature a magnificent wave pattern made using a skilful guilloché technique.
Each timepiece is driven by a self-winding movement. The calibre with its silicon components guarantees 55 hours of power reserve once the watch is fully wound. The mechanism can be seen through the sapphire glass caseback and includes a surprising rotor shaped like a ship’s wheel.
A range of options for straps are available to suit all tastes. Along with elegant brown or blue leather, there is also a rubber version for a casual-chic look.
Price: 18,000 EUR (titanium) – 28,000 EUR (gold) breguet.com
By Dan Diaconu