Monthly Archives: July 2019

chopard luc xps 1860 england open caseback

L.U.C XPS 1860 ROYAL ARMS OF ENGLAND

RULE BRITANNIA!

To celebrate the opening of its new London boutique, Chopard is releasing a limited edition with a hinged case back, as distinguished as one of Her Majesty’s officers.

“Elegance is when the inside is as beautiful as the outside.” mused Coco Chanel (1883-1971) and this reflection is perfectly befitting of the L.U.C XPS 1860 Royal Arms of England released by Chopard. The gold dial accentuated by an anthracite galvanic treatment and the guilloched center demonstrate all the qualities of the L.U.C collection. The time information, the dauphine hour and minute hands, the date and the small seconds at 6 o’clock bring this pared-down style to life. The refined composition is enhanced by the slim 40 mm white gold case just 7.7 mm thick. Turning the watch over reveals a case back covered with a graphic honeycomb design. By pressing on the crown, it opens at 90° just like old pocket watches.

chopard luc xps 1860 england open casebackThe 8 pieces of this ultra-limited series come with a brown alligator strap and are only available in Chopard’s UK boutiques.

Price: on request chopard.com

By Dan Diaconu

zenith defy fusee tourbillon dial closeup

DEFY EL PRIMERO FUSÉE TOURBILLON

AVANT-GARDE IN THE NAME OF PRECISION

Guaranteeing precise time information for the duration of the movement’s running time is the aim of this futuristic limited edition by Zenith.

The quality of the energy provided by a spring drops over time. To overcome this inherent mechanical feature, watchmakers have designed various systems capable of providing a constant force. One of these consists of a two-piece system formed of a micro-chain coiled around a conical fusee and attached to the barrel. In practical terms, this “fusee-chain” transmission guarantees the production of homogeneous energy. This is what is used together with a tourbillon regulating organ in the impressive Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon.

zenith defy fusee tourbillon dial closeupThe brand is offering the Defy El Primero Fusée Tourbillon in two very different limited editions. One comprising 50 pieces has a technical face with the omnipresence of black carbon, while the other is even more exclusive comprising just 10 pieces made of platinum.

Price: 80,100 EUR (carbon) – 102,500 EUR (platinum) zenith.com

By Dan Diaconu

omega deville tresor steel profile

DE VILLE TRESOR

BLUE DENIM EFFECT

Available in store in August, the new De Ville Trésor has a slim steel profile and a denim blue face on which the pattern resembles the weave of the popular fabric.

Created in 1949, the Trésor collection of the Biel/Bienne-based watchmaker Omega has recently experienced a revival. This beautiful renaissance has transformed it into a fully-fledged range comprising elegant yet classic models, aimed at men and women, incorporated into the De Ville product family. Released at the end of May and available in store in August, the new steel De Ville Trésor joins the ranks.

omega deville tresor steel profileThe polished steel case measures 40 mm in diameter and houses the Omega 8910 calibre, a manual-winding mechanical Master Chronometer-certified movement offering a power reserve of 72 hours. Its Geneva stripes can be seen through the transparent case back.

The De Ville Trésor also exists in an even more embellished version with a band of brilliant-cut diamonds set on the bezel.

Price: 6,400 CHF (steel) – 11,700 CHF (diamond-set steel) omegawatches.com

By Sharmila Bertin

panrai luminor tourbillon gmt 47 caseback closeup

LUMINOR TOURBILLON GMT 47MM LO SCIENZIATO

LOOKING TO THE FUTURE

The approach is logical. Combining fine watchmaking materials and mechanisms is the guarantee to making a captivating watch. Let us demonstrate with the PAM00768.

Released for the first time in 2010 in a 48 mm ceramic Radiomir case, Lo Scienziato, “the scientist“ in Italian, in homage to Galileo, returns this year in a sophisticated version with a 47 mm Luminor case made of sandblasted titanium. This option chosen by Panerai endows this exclusive timepiece with a completely different personality. Carbotech, which forms the bezel, crown and lever of the crown’s protection mechanism, enhances the high-tech personality of this watch. The green-colored components provide an easy-to-read layout of the time information. Within this modern ultra-light architecture, weighing just 18 g, presides the P.2005/T caliber, which also has a record-breaking weight of 23 g.

panrai luminor tourbillon gmt 47 caseback closeupThe Luminor Tourbillon GMT 47mm Lo Scienziato comes in a cherry wood box with two straps, one in gray leather and the other in black Velcro.

Price: 145,000 EUR

By Dan Diaconu

vacheron constantin patrimony retrograde day date blue caseback closeup

PATRIMONY RETROGRADE DAY-DATE

FORMAL COMBINATION

Vacheron Constantin blends a concentrate of classic elegance with an on-trend azure blue finish. This combination gives the watch a relaxed yet stylish feel.

Blue dials are currently very popular. Synonymous with distinction without being conventional, this year they bring style to the most timeless collection by Vacheron Constantin. Although the Patrimony Retrograde Day Date is not new, it has been given a completely new facelift with the time information displayed across the dial which is decorated with this majestic color and a sunray-effect satin finish. The ballet of the gold hands is more refined in this natural, pared-down composition, particularly the two retrograde mechanisms arranged in semicircles which indicate the days and the date. All these functions are easy to adjust with the crown, without the need for correctors.

vacheron constantin patrimony retrograde day date blue caseback closeupAs with most of the brand’s timepieces, the Patrimony Retrograde Day Date is certified by the Geneva Seal, a sign of excellence and reliability. This model comes with an alligator strap in the same shade as the dial.

Price: 44,300 EUR vacheron-constantin.com

By Dan Diaconu

patek philippe 5235 50r caseback closeup

5235/50R ANNUAL CALENDAR REGULATOR

A SHADE ABOVE

The choice of color and material can alter the personality of a timepiece. Not convinced? The 2019 version of this edition will make your mind up.

Unveiled to the public for the first time in 2011 in a white gold case and a silver-gray dial, the Annual Calendar Regulator by Patek Philippe has been brought back to life this year with a stylish new version. The dial sports an impressive combination of graphite and ebony-black shades, enhanced by a vertical satin finish. It contains two subdials which indicate the hours, at 12 o’clock, and the seconds, at 6 o’clock. The date, day and month are spread across the dial in their respective windows. This annual calendar only requires one adjustment per year, at the end of February. Sweeping over this timepiece is a large white central minute hand which is characteristic of regulators of the past which were used as accurate reference watches. This spacious composition ensures a very easy-to-read layout of all the information.

patek philippe 5235 50r caseback closeupTo accentuate this refined identity, the 5235/50R series comes with a matte black alligator strap finished with a pin buckle.

Price: 47,020 EUR patek.com

By Dan Diaconu

longines legend diver watch nacre both straps

THE LONGINES LEGEND DIVER WATCH

AN OCEAN OF MOTHER-OF-PEARL

The Saint-Imier brand’s famous divers’ watch now comes in a new diameter and sports a dial with a white mother-of-pearl disk for a very summery look with a touch of retro

Inspired by the timepieces produced by Longines in the 1960s and part of the Heritage collection which brings together re-releases of the finest models designed by the brand in Saint-Imier, The Longines Legend Diver Watch lives on again. The famous divers’ watch with a truly vintage look has not only abandoned its traditional black dial highlighted in vanilla yellow but has also swapped its imposing 42 mm diameter for a more subtle and summery version.

longines legend diver watch nacre both strapsScaled down and water resistant up to 30 m, the polished steel case topped with a slim bezel now measures 36 mm. It still has two crowns. The crown at 2 o’clock rotates the inner bezel, a wide bowl-shaped flange ring displaying the minute counter and the famous luminescent marker, an essential diving feature. The other crown at 4 o’clock has a more conventional function: winding, setting the time and adjusting the date.

The dial is decorated with a white mother-of-pearl disk and its shimmering iridescent colors complete the charm of The Longines Legend Diver Watch. The index markers punctuated with Super-LumiNova® squares and the Arabic numerals 6, 9, and 12 are painted black. At 3 o’clock, a framed window indicates the date in black on a white background.

These functions are powered by the L592 caliber, an automatic movement which provides a power reserve of 40 hours once wound completely.

This model by Longines comes with a choice of white leather strap for a summery look or a steel mesh bracelet for a more vintage profile.

Price: 2,010 CHF (white leather strap) – 2,260 CHF (steel mesh bracelet)

By Sharmila Bertin

omega seamaster planet ocean ultra deep caseback

SEAMASTER PLANET OCEAN ULTRA DEEP

TO THE OCEAN DEPTHS

With the help of technology, the limits are constantly being pushed back. Thanks to this expertise, Omega has produced a watch that is capable of reaching a record-breaking depth of 10,928 m.

The oceans cover 70% of our planet. However, it is estimated that over 75% of the deep seabed still remains to be explored. Every voyage to the Mariana Trench is an event in itself. Until now, its explored depth was 10,908 meters. This year, with the help of his high-tech submarine, Limiting Factor, Victor Vescovo descended to a record-breaking depth of 10,928 meters. During this dizzy descent into the cold, dark realm, Omega provided three Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep watches. Two of them were fastened to the articulated arms, the third was attached to a probe sent to collect data. All of them were subject to a pressure of 1500 bar.

omega seamaster planet ocean ultra deep casebackAfter this historic dive, the Seamasters and their 8912 automatic calibers underwent ten days of strict testing within the Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology (METAS) and all three passed the Master Chronometer tests.

All the technical innovations developed for the Seamaster Planet Ocean Ultra Deep will be used in future developments of the brand.

Price: Not for sale omegawatches.com

By Dan Diaconu

breitling b01 chrnograph premier wheels and waves profile

PREMIER B01 CHRONOGRAPH 2 WHEELS AND WAVES

SURFING AND SUPERIOR MECHANISMS

Eat dust and take to the waves. The limited edition unveiled during Wheels and Waves by Breitling is the link between land and sea.

Wheels and Waves, in Biarritz, France, is a unique festival in more ways than one. Highlights include: music concerts, art exhibitions, skating performances, motorcycle races and surfing competitions. For the 8th edition, which was held in the seaside resort on June 13, Breitling, the official timekeeper of the event, presented a limited edition, the Premier B01 Chronograph Wheels and Waves. On a pared-down anthracite dial, the hour and minute hands coated with Super-LumiNova® point to the index markers encircled by a tachymeter scale. This stylish and sporty composition is accentuated by two black counters and the red central second hand. This spacious composition ensures optimal readability of the time information.

breitling b01 chrnograph premier wheels and waves profileTwo versions are available. 500 numbered and engraved pieces are produced in steel. The second precious version in red gold is limited to 100 pieces. Both come with a brown nubuck strap fastened with a pin buckle. As with all the brand’s watches, the precision and performance of this chronograph are certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC).

Price: 7,700 CHF (steel) – 22,500 CHF (red gold)

By Dan Diaconu

tag heuer monaco limited 1979-1989 red caseback

MONACO 1979-1989 LIMITED EDITION

THE SPIRIT OF THE 1980S

The second limited edition out of the five planned watches marks 50 years of the Monaco by TAG Heuer and sports a red dial with the same intensity of color as a race car.

While the 87th edition of 24 Hours of Le Mans was in full swing, TAG Heuer unveiled the second limited edition which marks 50 years of its iconic model, the Monaco. It was on this circuit that the legend was born 48 years ago. In all the takes, during the filming of Le Mans in 1971, Steve McQueen (1930-1980) wore the watch belonging to his friend and racing driver Jo Siffert (1936-1971), the first Heuer brand ambassador. An influencer ahead of his time, the actor unwittingly helped the commercial success of the watch.

tag heuer monaco limited 1979-1989 red casebackFor this livery, the limited edition in just 169 pieces comes with a sporty strap in perforated black calf leather and a folding buckle. Every piece comes in a box matching the colors of the watch and the decade it celebrates.

Price: 6,400 CHF www.tagheuer.com

By Dan Diaconu