A STAR IN THE SEA
The Locle-based watchmaker proposes a new, totally-steel-machined dive watch, whose robustness and reliability invite you to explore the seabed with total peace of mind.
For 76 years, Mido has been enabling divers to sound the depths of the world’s oceans reliably thanks to a collection of watches designed for underwater exploration, baptized Ocean Star. This year, the Locle-based watchmaker proposes a new version, just as reliable but equipped with an impressive power reserve: the Ocean Star Caliber 80 model.
The sea-inspired blue dial is detailed with vertical satin-finishing punctuated with white Super-LumiNova®-covered applique indexes. This same pigment also highlights the skeletonized pair of hands and the tip of the direct-drive whose arrow is varnished with orange. At 3 o’clock, a double aperture displays the day and date in white on a black backdrop, a contrast which offers fast data readability.
All the functions are driven by the caliber 80, a self-winding movement beating at 21,600 vibrations an hour and ensuring, as its name so states, a power reserve of some 80 hours.
This new Mido is complemented by a steel link bracelet closed by a folding clasp with an extension specially-designed to be worn over a wetsuit.
By Sharmila Bertin
THE PERFECT LINK
To take the Big Bang’s sporty-chic spirit to new heights, the watchmakers from Nyon imagined a new bracelet which fuses completely with the case and forms its natural extension.
The Big Bang Integral adorns three different materials. The first showcases polished titanium, the second, in King Gold, dazzles on the wrist, whilst the third is proposed as a 500-piece All Black limited edition fashioned in satin-brushed black ceramic.
Prices: CHF19,900 (titanium) – CHF21,900 (All Black) – CHF49,900 (King Gold) www.hublot.com
By Dan Diaconu
OH THE JOYS OF LOVE!
As the ultimate celebration of love is about to dawn, the Joux Valley manufacture unveils a jewelry piece totally adorned with diamonds and inspired by a timepiece once owned by Marilyn Monroe.
A silhouette, a face, a voice, a style: Marilyn Monroe (1926-1962) has been the absolute embodiment of femininity and continues to weave her magic on the world. Throughout her life, the sublime American actress and singer wore a Blancpain-created 1930s cocktail watch on her wrist which was recently showcased in the watchmaker’s New York store. This art deco-styled timepiece inspired the creation of a 14-piece limited edition dedicated to this lovers’ celebration, the Saint-Valentin 2020 model, enshrined in the Women Collection.
Like its elder sibling, this new watch embraces a rectangular case decorated with a flat, fluted crown. This svelte white-gold silhouette, measuring 35×16 mm and just 6.50 mm thick, strewn with 84 diamonds including two marquise-cut ones caressing the lugs, hosts a hand-wound mechanical movement. The caliber 510 delivers a power reserve of 52 hours and drives the key time data, i.e. the hours and minutes.
The immaculate face of this piece made for celebrating love features white mother-of-pearl marquetry from which two half hearts emerge, each crowned with a diamond. Two precious butterflies, whose bodies are fashioned with golden thread and whose wings are set with rubies and diamonds, hover delicately over this iridescent scenescape whilst a pair of central sword-shaped hands displays the hours and minutes.
Blancpain’s Women Collection Saint-Valentin 2020 wraps around the wrist with a white calfskin strap attached by an ardillon buckle adorned with a brilliant-cut diamond totaling 1.477 carats.
By Sharmila Bertin
FROM FICTION TO REALITY
Only available in Japan, this limited series bears the features of the first automatic chronograph and brings to life the watch of imaginary character Rupan Sansei.
A Japanese version of Arsène Lupin in a soap opera manga, Lupin the Third, takes up the myth of the French gentleman burglar from 1967 under the pen name Monkey Punch (1937-2019). An animated series that began to be broadcast in 1971 allowed the fictional character to meet an international audience. In the first episode of Rupan Sansei, Lupin’s partner Daisuke Jigen wears a Zenith watch. As the model did not exist, the Manufacture decided to mark the 50th anniversary of the El Primero caliber by bringing it to life in the form of a 50-piece limited edition called the A384 Revival Lupin the Third Edition. It is presented in a special case with a counter-box decorated with a mosaic of images from the series.
The time information and the date at 4:30 am are powered by the El Primero 400 caliber with a rate of 36,000 vibrations per hour. The self-winding movement ensures a 50-hour autonomy. Its oscillating weight with a Côtes de Genève finish is revealed through the sapphire crystal caseback on which the silhouette of Daisuke Jigen is drawn.
Price: EUR7,000 zenith.com
By Dan Diaconu
Always on a quest for excellence, the Manufacture combines two original Haute Horlogerie complications in a powerful, monochrome contemporary architecture.
In 2015, Vacheron Constantin presented the most complicated watch ever made. No less than 57 complications were integrated into its movement. Two of these are found in the Les Cabinotiers Tourbillon Armillaire model presented at the end of 2019. Omnipresent on a dial separated into two distinct spaces, they contribute to the esthetics of this reference. On the right-hand dial, the hour and minute hands move in a circular arc. Once the 60 minutes and 12 hours have been reached, they instantly return to their first unit. Faced with the retrograde display of temporal data, a mechanical complex is in perpetual animation. Positioned under a bubble formed by the sapphire crystal, this construction consists of two cages nested inside each other. They move on two different axes at a speed of 60 seconds per rotation. This armillary tourbillon is named after the French watchmaker Antide Janvier who, in the 18th century, made an astronomical clock with a globe composed of armatures, metal circles that model the celestial sphere.
The 1990 caliber masterfully directs this feat of fine watchmaking. The hand-wound movement is housed in a 45mm-diameter titanium case. Once wound, it provides the watch with 65 hours of autonomy.
This timepiece, stamped with the Hallmark of Geneva, is worn on an alligator leather strap with a pin buckle.
Price upon request vacheron-constantin.com
By Dan Diaconu
GRAPHIC AND EXTRA-FLAT
An esthetic evolution is granting the sporty chic model a new lease on life. It becomes the first automatic round model in TPT® carbon.
In 2011, the RM 033 was perfectly round. The evolution presented at the end of 2019, the RM 33-02 Automatic, still sports this geometric shape. However, the redesigned lines of the 42mm case are inspired by those of the tonneau shape found in the current production of Richard Mille timepieces. From this point forward, this esthetic signature is enhanced by the use of TPT® carbon for the bezel and red gold for the caseband. While the original model embodied delicate beauty with its 8.8mm thickness, the evolution is extra-flat, only 6.2mm high. Despite this marked difference, the watchmakers succeeded in the feat of integrating the same RMXPA1 caliber and its bidirectional off-center rotor (45 hours power reserve) that can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback.
To reinforce its character, both sporty and stylish at once, the 140-piece limited edition is worn on a black rubber strap.
Price: CHF151,000 all taxes included richardmille.com
By Dan Diaconu
Esthetically, the production of the Manufacture is distinguished by hues of degraded smoke. The new technology used opens new esthetic perspectives.
“There is not one black, but many blacks,” said the couturier Yves Saint Laurent. Upon discovering the dial of the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack,® one can only agree. Here, the technology developed by Surrey NanoSystems in 2014 finds a new outlet for expression. The coating, made up of carbon nanotubes 10,000 times thinner than a hair, absorbs 99.96% of the light. The result? A black of a density never before achieved. To enhance this technical feature, Moser is returning to the concept it launched in 2015, leaving the dial devoid of any brand or logo. This ultra-refined presentation showcases the one-minute flying tourbillon at 6 o’clock. The cage, its wheel, balance and exhaust bridges were machined from aerospace aluminum and coated with black PVD. This stiffer material optimizes the energy balance and guarantees better performance. A pair of leaf-shaped hour and minute hands flies over the whole assembly.
The 50 pieces of the Endeavour Tourbillon Concept Vantablack® are worn on a black alligator leather strap finished with a white gold folding clasp.
Price: 75,000 CHF
By Dan Diaconu
THE TRAVELING SOUL
An ideal travel companion for elegant globetrotters, the travel watch from the watchmaker from La Chaux-de-Fonds offers a new face that encourages people to never put down their suitcases again.
Traveling is a way of life. To preserve his temporal landmarks, Jaquet Droz revisits the esthetics of his Grande Seconde Dual Time without distorting its spirit. While the layout of the two time zones remains identical with the emblematic 8-shaped dial, the complication dedicated to the second time zone located in the lower part changes markedly. A representation of the continents in the form of a polar azimuthal projection now serves as a backdrop. A powdered finish helps the land stand out from the polished surface of the oceans. To make it easier to read the domestic time, a red triangle points to the 24-hour indication carried by a disc now segmented in two distinct colors, white for day and black for night. The local time can always be read at the top of the dial on an hour circle made up of Roman numerals. Its time jump setting ensures ease of use for the traveler upon arriving at the destination.
All versions are powered by the 2663H24 caliber. In addition to the hours and minutes, this self-winding movement with 65 hours of power reserve orchestrates a date with a fine hand recognizable by its red tip. The sapphire caseback also reveals the stylized oscillating weight. Each Grande Seconde Dual Time comes with a leather strap.
Price: 15,200 CHF (steel) – 25,500 CHF (red gold) jaquet-droz.com
By Dan Diaconu
Mechanical sophistication, esthetic simplicity… More than a simple formula, a refined state of mind and utter classicism define the evolution of this watch.
To reinforce the elegance of the Master Ultra Thin Tourbillon in Rose Gold, it comes with a brown alligator leather strap finished with a pin buckle.
Price upon request www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
By Dan Diaconu
THE STARS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
Seeking inspiration, appeasement and beauty by simply turning to the stars: this is the challenge launched by the new watch created by the Manufacture from Le Locle, recently unveiled in Dubai.
As part of the LVMH Watch Week, a new trade show organized by the group whose first edition took place in January in Dubai, Zenith presented a watch mainly aimed at women.
This new Defy Midnight, which comes in six variations, bears the typical curved silhouette of the collection, with its full, beveled shoulder straps. Whether it is intense blue like a summer evening, taupe gray with stormy accents or pearly white like an autumn mist, the dial undeniably evokes the immensity of the sky bursting with a multitude of stars.
These have different sizes and are sometimes luminescent, a brilliance enhanced by the 11 diamonds on the hour-markers and the 44 brilliants when the bezel is set. At the center of this starry night, two rhodium-plated baton-style hands and a second hand with a star-shaped counterweight indicate the hours, minutes and seconds. To optimize information, the date is displayed in black on a white background in an aperture at 3 o’clock.
The Defy Midnight is powered by the Elite 670 SK caliber, an automatic movement that delivers 48 hours of power reserve and is housed in a 36mm-diameter steel case. It is completed by a wide variety of straps (steel links, satin or rubber-lined leather) that are easily interchangeable.
Price: 8,900 CHF (steel) – 10,900 CHF (crimped steel) zenith.com
By Sharmila Bertin