Tudor is taking full advantage of the Rugby World Cup which is currently taking place in Japan to launch a chronograph in the color of the famous New Zealand’s team jersey.
As partner of New Zealand’s national rugby team, Tudor is proposing to rugby fans a limited edition of its Black Bay Chrono model completely decked out in the renowned color of the All Blacks. The 41 mm steel case is finished with a black PVD-treated coating (Physical Vapor Deposition) and a satin-brushed finish. This color is also used on the dial, the pushers, the crown and on the steel bracelet complete with a folding buckle.
Only 1,181 pieces of the Black Bay Chrono Dark are available. This figure corresponds to the number of players who have worn the jersey with the silver fern since the creation of the team in 1884 and it will grow as players are selected on the pitch during the World Cup. The engraving on the case back specifies the number of each timepiece.
Price: 5,590 EUR
By Dan Diaconu
Summing up the history of a brand in a single watch – this is the challenge taken up by Tudor with a model combining a timeless look and a modern, efficient mechanism.
Tudor is again inviting us to take a journey into the brand’s past. Yet, the story is not well known. The Black Bay P01 is not a reissue of a famous watch, but concludes a project that remained on the drawing board for 50 years. From the mid-1950s, the brand had been supplying the US Navy with diving watches. The authorities commissioned a new watch, and a prototype was developed in line with their specifications. But finally Navy chiefs opted for the standard model from the Swiss brand’s catalogue. Yet, the prototype had plenty of assets. And they have been incorporated in a new way on the P01. The angular “snowflake“ hands and lume-coated indices stand out clearly against the black dial. This contrasting composition is encircled by a wide, bidirectional revolving bezel. To prevent it from being moved by mistake, the bezel comes with an original stop system. The system is housed at 12 o’clock. You raise a “hood” to move the bezel, then lower it back into place to block the bezel.
The P01 is certified as a chronometer by the COSC. It is protected by a 42mm-wide steel case and is water-resistant down to 200m. The leather and rubber strap makes for a comfortable wearing experience.
Price: 3,750 CHF
By Dan Diaconu
ORIGINS OF THE ROSE
1926 was a landmark year in the history of Tudor. The brand pays homage to this important date with a new collection of automatic steel timepieces at a reasonable price.
Almost one century ago, in 1926, “The Tudor“ brand was registered in the name of Hans Wildorf (1881-1960), the founder of Rolex. In 1936 Rolex took over the brand and founded the Tudor Watch company in 1946. The brief for this new brand of watches was very clear: to design products of an equally high quality as Rolex models, but at more affordable prices. A promise that has been kept over time, as can be seen in the 1926 collection launched at Baselworld last March.
This new family, named after Tudor’s launch year, is aimed at both men and women. It also caters for both slender and very robust wrists with four different steel case sizes (28, 36, 39 and 41mm). Some models adopt the two-colour trend that has been back in fashion for a few years now, dressing the bezel, crown and features such as the leaf-shaped hands and hour markers in rose gold. The dial is available in three fairly traditional colours: black, opaline and silver. At the centre there is an embossed pattern, a kind of counter-relief check, encircled by the smooth ring containing the minute track. The hour markers also vary in shape (Arabic numerals for the even numbers with triangular markers or brilliant-cut diamonds) and in colour (golden, silver or blue).
Two self-winding movements drive the time functions (hours, minutes, seconds in the centre) and the calendar (date at 3 o’clock) in the 1926 watches: the calibre 2824 for the 36, 39 and 41mm models and the 2671 for the smallest version, supplying a power reserve of 38 hours.
Price from 1,600 CHF to 2,750 CHF
By Sharmila Bertin
MORE THAN A FAMILY RESEMBLANCE
This model, with its two-colour bezel, recalls a watchmaking classic. But take a closer look and you’ll see that the brand with the Tudor rose has kept its own personality intact.
They always manage to surprise us. For the past few years, Tudor has regularly been the focus of attention with their models launched at Baselworld. For 2018, the Black Bay GMT is undeniably the watch in the spotlight. It’s true that the bidirectional revolving bezel is quite reminiscent of the legendary Rolex GMT-Master II, but look closer and you’ll see that this watch has the technical talents and specific features to make it very attractive. First of all, this really is an all-terrain model, at home on land or in the water with a robust steel case that is watertight down to 200m. The Snowflake hour hand, an aesthetic hallmark of the collection, and the minute hand point towards luminous hour markers that stand out nicely against the black dial for optimal readability, even in the dark. Along with the central second hand, there is a fourth, red hand that revolves once around the dial every 24 hours, so the owner can see the time in a second time zone using the figures around the bezel. The blue and the burgundy colours show the night and day times respectively. A date rounds off the time information.
All these features are driven by an automatic mechanical movement (70 hours of power reserve), with accuracy certified by the COSC. It also has a “stop second“ system for precise time setting.
The Black Bay GMT is worn with a steel, leather or NATO strap. Tudor has reminded us that a practical watch can also be stylish!
Price: 3,400 EUR (leather-NATO) – 3,700 EUR (steel)
By Dan Diaconu
PORTRAIT OF A WATCHMAKING SUCCESS
The Fifty-Eight, the latest addition to the Black Bay collection, takes inspiration from the first timepiece that was watertight down to 200m made by Tudor for the design, and a new movement developed by the brand, for the mechanism.
True sagas never die but expand over time. This is perhaps the case for the Black Bay range, which is both a commercial success and an easily identifiable collection. To the already existing watches has been added the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model presented by Tudor at BaselWorld 2018.
Slimmer and smaller than its predecessors, this watch is inspired by the reference 7924, also known as the “Big Crown”, the first diver’s watch that was watertight down to 200m. Launched by Tudor in 1958, it was produced in small numbers, so that today it is highly sought after by collectors (prices range from $40,000 to $60,000). From this famous diver’s watch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has taken a few aesthetic features – the geometric shapes of the indices on the black curved dial, the red triangular and luminescent mark on the revolving steel bezel, with an aluminium ring made of anodised matt aluminium, and the gilded touches here and there, especially on the minute scale around the edge of the dial. The “snowflake” hour, minute and second hands are a variation on the square-shaped hands that were first introduced in 1969.
The steel case of this Tudor measures 39mm and is watertight down to 200m (of course!). It houses a new automatic movement, the calibre MT5402, specially designed for medium-sized watches. The mechanism is equipped with a silicon spiral and is certified as a chronometer by the COSC – a guarantee of precision, reliability and robustness – and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.
Price: 3,100 CHF (with leather or fabric) – 3,400 CHF (steel)
By Sharmila Bertin
THE SAGA CONTINUES!
Heritage Black Bay S&G by Tudor; a new timepiece scales the heights of a well-established collection on the contemporary watch scene.
The Heritage Black Bay may be inspired by the look of 1954’s Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner but behind the vintage mask it’s still a contemporary watch. Since the launch of the piece with a burgundy bezel, the collection has grown and struck gold with every new Tudor model. Its success story continued at 2017’s Baselworld when the Genevan brand unveiled a range of models including the Heritage Black Bay S&G, S for steel and G for gold.
The new watch has the same shape as its forebears but with flashes of yellow gold on the rotating bezel, screwdown crown, central strap link and dial features. It still oozes neo-retro style without being bling.
The 41mm steel case is topped by a unidirectional rotating bezel with a matt black aluminium ring bearing the gold minute track. It houses the self-winding MT5612 calibre made by Tudor and based on the MT5602 launched in 2015. The powerful COSC-certified movement runs at 28,800 vph (4Hz) and has a 70-hour power reserve.
The three gold luminescent hands on the black domed dial have the classic Heritage Black Bay shape and track the hours, minutes and seconds along applied geometrical markers (also gold and luminescent) and a gilded minute track. The biggest surprise for the collection’s fans is the date display at 3.
The Heritage Black Bay S&G comes with a steel strap with a yellow gold central link or a black aged leather strap with a deployment clasp. As you’d expect from Tudor, the watch comes with an additional khaki fabric strap whose flecks of gold match the sun-kissed warmth radiating from the watch’s yellow gold glints.
Price: 4750 CHF (steel and gold strap) – 3600 CHF (aged leather)
By Sharmila Bertin
THE DIVE WATCH PRODUCED FOR LEFT-HANDERS
The Red Shield brand offers a version of its Pelagos dive watch specially developed for wearing on the right wrist.
If, like most of us, you are in the habit of wearing your watch on your left wrist, with the crown facing your hand, how would you feel if you decided to wear it on the right wrist? Awkward, no doubt, or even uncomfortable, like left-handers and many right-handers who like to wear their watch on their right wrist. Thirty-five years after producing a dive watch for left-handers in 1981 at the request of the Marine nationale française (French Navy), Tudor presents the Pelagos LHD model. LHD stands for Left Hand Drive, and in fact, the screwdown winder crown usually found at the 3 o’clock position on the body is positioned at the 9 o’clock position on the case of the Pelagos LHD.
It measures 42mm in diameter, and is made of titanium, a lightweight metal which is rustproof (essential for a dive watch often immersed in salt seawater), and is watertight to a depth of 500 metres. The steel back of the watch has Arabic numerals corresponding to the production number, since the Pelagos LHD is numbered series. A titanium unidirectional rotating bezel covers the case, with a black ceramic ring on which is written in beige the dive scale graduated from 0 to 60 minutes. An automatic helium valve placed at the 3 o’clock position completes the “left-handed” version of this tool watch.
The matt grey armure watch holds a self-winding mechanical movement designed and produced by Tudor, MT 5612 calibre. This powerful heart, beating at 4Hz (ie 28,800 vibrations per hour) is a COSC-certified chronometer and has a big power reserve of 70 hours. It marks the date as well as the time.
On the sand-blasted black dial, the indicators have the typical configuration of Pelagos watches: the hours are alternately marked by geometric shapes and “snowflake” hands, all coated with a luminescent beige substance. An open display at the 3 o’clock position shows the date on an ivory background, displayed alternately in red (even dates) and black (uneven dates). This system of colour nicknamed “roulette” by the aficionados of the brand made its first appearance on a Tudor model dating from 1969.
Last but not least, the watch is attached to the right wrist using a bracelet with titanium links ending in a steel buckle with a security clasp. A second strap in black rubber fastened with a pin buckle is also supplied with this Pelagos LHD.
Price: 4,200 CHF
By Sharmila Bertin
Tudor – Heritage Black Bay Bronze
Bronze is a glossy blend of copper and metals (aluminium, tin, lead) that’s stronger and heavier than steel. Unlike other iron materials, seawater hardly affects it and rust gives it a beautiful green-grey patina. Bronze has fascinated mankind since the dawn of time and we’ve used it a million ways from prehistoric tools to 21st century watch cases, just like the new Heritage Black Bay Bronze by Tudor.
Its 43mm bronze case is slightly larger than its Heritage Black Bay brothers and has the self-winding in-house MT5601 calibre which provides a 70-hour power reserve and is COSC-certified.
Its slightly domed milk chocolate dial features luminescent bronze bevelled indices and Arabic numerals with a bronze minute track. The hours, minutes and seconds are tracked by phosphorescent gold hands.
Price: 3,800 CHF
By Sharmila Bertin