Monthly Archives: April 2018

omega seamaster olymic games gold collection with caseback

SEAMASTER OLYMPIC GAMES GOLD COLLECTION

A TIMELESS PODIUM

Official timekeepers for the Olympic Games since 1932, the brand from Bern has restated its love of sport with a trio of watches inspired by the victory podium made of white, red and yellow gold, symbolising the passion of history’s medal-winners.

It’s true that the Winter Olympic Games in Pyeongchang in South Korea have been over for more than a month. But while the sports event is finished, the victory symbolised by an Olympic medal is eternal. Celebrating history and time, Omega, the official timekeepers for the Olympic Games since 1932, has designed a trio of watches in a fairly traditional style. The Seamaster Olympic Games Gold Collection borrows the colours of the metals used to make the gold, silver and bronze medals. But they have been replaced by three tones of gold – yellow, SednaTM (red gold made exclusively from an alloy for Omega) and CanopusTM (white gold also developed specifically for the brand from Bienne).

omega seamaster olymic games gold collection with casebackThis watchmaking podium features a 39.5mm-wide case, a standard size that is both ideal and timeless. It houses the calibre Master Chronometer 8807, a small-sized automatic movement with a co-axial escapement and the METAS certification, and providing 55 hours of autonomy. The mechanism driving the hour, minute and second functions can be seen at work through a screwed caseback equipped with a sapphire crystal window and a ring featuring the names of the cities and dates of the Olympic Games where Omega has been and will be present from 1932 to 2028.

The off-white enamel dial on the Seamaster Olympic Games Gold Collection contains faceted triangular hour markers and leaf-shaped hands, all made of gold. The discreet minute track between the hour markers and the Seamaster name are made of black enamel. And at 12 o’clock is the vintage Omega logo, painted red.

Price: 17,200 CHF (red gold or yellow gold) – 18,800 CHF (white gold)  omegawatches.com

By Sharmila Bertin

blancpain fifty fhatoms grande date closeup with caseback

FIFTY FATHOMS GRANDE DATE

A BIG DATE FOR THE DEEP BLUE SEA

For Baselworld 2018, the brand introduced a new model in the diving watch collection Fifty Fathoms, equipped with a very visible date.

A diving watch gives divers access to excellent readability of time information in all conditions. Even though the date is not itself an important element for safety during a dive, what could be more natural than to give it a giant display on the dial? This idea is now a reality with the Fifty Fathoms Grande Date. For this model, Blancpain has used the perfectly mastered mechanism found in watches in the Villeret collection. So out goes the small opening between 4 and 5 o’clock and in come two large sub-dials at 6 o’clock. The date changes instantly at midnight. It is still easy to adjust using the crown, as are the sword-type hour and minute hands with their luminous coating.

blancpain fifty fhatoms grande date closeup with casebackAs for the movement, performance is present and correct with an automatic calibre and a generous power reserve of five days driven by three barrels fitted as standard. The rotor in the calibre 1315 is unveiled through the sapphire back of the robust 45cm-wide titanium case.

The Fifty Fathoms Grande Date has kept all the features that make it the ideal tool for exploring the sea depths: a unidirectional sapphire bezel, watertightness down to 300m, resistance to magnetic fields thanks to its silicon spiral, etc. The new watch also comes with two straps with a nautical flavour. One is made of sail canvas and the other is a NATO strap.

Price: 16,370 EUR blancpain.com

By Dan Diaconu

chopard luc heritage grand cru caseback

L.U.C HERITAGE GRAND CRU

INTERPLAY OF CONTRASTS

Dressed in black and white, and adorned with a row of baguette diamonds, the “form” watch designed by Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, co-president of Chopard, has everything to win over men – and women!

“Form” watches have an instant impact – and you either fall in love at once or you move on to a “democratic” timepiece. Whatever the case, they produce an instantaneous reaction. The L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru stands out in the Chopard collections through its shape, midway between the round and the rectangular. It owes its existence to one man, Karl-Friedrich Scheufele, the brand’s co-president. A lover of good wines, he designed the watch like a grand cru, “bottled” in a barrel-shaped case. The movement is certified as a chronometer by the COSC, and the Geneva Seal makes it even more precious.

chopard luc heritage grand cru casebackThe curves of the white-gold case, measuring 38.5×38.8mm, are highlighted by a bezel set with 40 baguette diamonds with a total of 3.05 carats. While the angular shape of the gem has often been reserved for men’s wrists, the dimensions of the L.U.C Heritage Grand Cru mean it can be worn by both men and women. The sapphire caseback on this bejewelled display reveals an automatic movement, the calibre L.U.C 97.01-L, running at 28,800 vibrations an hour and equipped with the Twin (double barrel) technology, providing a power reserve of 65 hours.

Price: 41,500 CHF chopard.com

By Sharmila Bertin

tudor black bay 58 collection

BLACK BAY FIFTY-EIGHT

PORTRAIT OF A WATCHMAKING SUCCESS

The Fifty-Eight, the latest addition to the Black Bay collection, takes inspiration from the first timepiece that was watertight down to 200m made by Tudor for the design, and a new movement developed by the brand, for the mechanism.

True sagas never die but expand over time. This is perhaps the case for the Black Bay range, which is both a commercial success and an easily identifiable collection. To the already existing watches has been added the Black Bay Fifty-Eight model presented by Tudor at BaselWorld 2018.

tudor black bay 58 collectionSlimmer and smaller than its predecessors, this watch is inspired by the reference 7924, also known as the “Big Crown”, the first diver’s watch that was watertight down to 200m. Launched by Tudor in 1958, it was produced in small numbers, so that today it is highly sought after by collectors (prices range from $40,000 to $60,000). From this famous diver’s watch, the Black Bay Fifty-Eight has taken a few aesthetic features – the geometric shapes of the indices on the black curved dial, the red triangular and luminescent mark on the revolving steel bezel, with an aluminium ring made of anodised matt aluminium, and the gilded touches here and there, especially on the minute scale around the edge of the dial. The “snowflake” hour, minute and second hands are a variation on the square-shaped hands that were first introduced in 1969.

The steel case of this Tudor measures 39mm and is watertight down to 200m (of course!). It houses a new automatic movement, the calibre MT5402, specially designed for medium-sized watches. The mechanism is equipped with a silicon spiral and is certified as a chronometer by the COSC – a guarantee of precision, reliability and robustness – and provides a power reserve of 70 hours.

Price: 3,100 CHF (with leather or fabric) – 3,400 CHF (steel)

By Sharmila Bertin

vacheron constantin aerostiers collection

METIERS D’ART LES AEROSTIERS

OPENING THE GATES TO THE SKY

Eagerly awaited at SIHH, the Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection is a five-part series featuring the first hot-air balloon flights in the late 18th century on each of its dials

The first question that comes to mind is “What is aerostier?“ “Aerostier” is the French word for an aerostat pilot. Yes, but what is an aerostat? An aerostat is “a lighter than air aircraft that gains its lift through the use of a buoyant gas.” In fact, this is what is generally known as a hot-air balloon, a huge bag of air with a gondola or basket beneath it, and whose history Vacheron Constantin has celebrated in five watches: the Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers.

The watch quintet pays homage to a human adventure in the late 18th century involving the first flights of these airships, and especially the launches taking place in France between 1783 and 1785. Each dial, without hands, is presented like a miniature painting using two artistic techniques: ramolayage – a form of sculpture and engraving used to create and decorate a silhouette in two dimensions – and plique-à-jour enamelling – a technique providing a transparent and colourful result resembling a stained-glass window.

vacheron constantin aerostiers collectionThe hours, minutes, day of the week and the date can be seen at 11.30, 1.30, 7.30 and 4.30, respectively, and are displayed with the help of a quartet of discs (two constant and two jumping discs). The watches’ features are powered by the automatic calibre 2460 G4/1, housed in a 40mm-wide white-gold case and providing 40 hours of autonomy.

Five pieces of each model from the Métiers d’Art Les Aérostiers collection are available.

Price: 144,000 EUR vacheron-constantin.com

By Sharmila Bertin

zenith pilot 2018 caseback

PILOT CRONOMETRO TIPO CP-2 FLYBACK

VINTAGE TIME DISPLAY

The Zenith star is back at its zenith! The Pilot Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback combines the attractions of a legendary model with a mechanism featuring very up-to-date performances.

Developed in the 1960s for the Italian army, the 2,500 CP-2 Cairelli chronographs are now highly sought after by collectors of military watches and fans of the brand with the star logo. Encouraged by the enthusiasm for a model that has become the symbol of an era, Zenith has designed a new version named Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback and in the same spirit as the original model. On the dial, there is the ultra-readable display. The hour and minute hands, coated in Super-LumiNova®, make their way around Arabic numerals with the same luminescent material.

zenith pilot 2018 casebackThe Cronometro Tipo CP-2 Flyback watch comes in two versions with a vintage look. While the case still has its original width of 43mm, it now comes in a choice of two materials. Aged bronze or steel are combined respectively with a grained brown or slate grey dial and a brown or green nubuck strap.

Price: 7,900 CHF zenith.com

By Dan Diaconu

breitling navitimer 8 b01 collection

NAVITIMER 8 B01

NEW FLIGHT

With the Navitimer 8 collection, Breitling takes a new aesthetic turn, while preserving some of the design features of its previous creations. We take a closer look at the model B01.

In 1938, Breitling inaugurated the Huit Aviation department. What lay behind the name? Most of the instruments provided for civilian and military purposes had eight (“huit” in French) days of power reserve. The brand recalls this figure in the name of its new collection, the Navitimer 8. While none of the models has so much autonomy, the B01 model still stands out with a calibre that will drive its functions for 70 hours. To achieve a performance like this, the self-winding movement is equipped with a bidirectional ball-bearing rotor. This cutting-edge mechanism with time-keeping precision certified by the COSC can also be used for split-time measurements. The column wheel movement controls the three chronograph functions: start, stop and reset. These operations are carried out in the traditional way using pushbuttons.

breitling navitimer 8 b01 collectionTwo versions of the Navitimer 8 B01 are available. The first has a sports look and combines a 43mm-wide steel case with a black or blue dial. The second is more refined and blends red gold and bronze. All the time information is easy to read with the large hands and over-sized figures in the purest tradition of the pilot’s watch. Split time is easily measured using the central second hand and two cream-coloured totalisers set at 3 and 6 o’clock. A running second and date counter round off the composition.

This flagship model from the range is worn with a leather strap featuring a tang buckle or a steel strap with a folding clasp.

Price: 7,100 CHF (steel – leather strap) – 7,800 CHF (steel – steel strap)

By Dan Diaconu

blancpain villeret quantieme complet gmt with caseback

VILLERET QUANTIÈME COMPLET GMT

COMPLETE SIMPLICITY

During Baselworld, Blancpain has unveiled its first new model. This is an update rather than a re-release, combining the GMT function and a complete calendar. Let’s take a closer look.

First launched in 2002 in the Villeret collection, Blancpain’s Quantième Complet GMT is updated each year to include the brand’s latest innovations. This model combines the day and month display in two counters at 12 o’clock. A serpentine hand made of blued steel shows the date. The moon phases are unveiled through an opening at 6 o’clock. A second time zone, the famous GMT function, is displayed with an extra hour hand, standing out through a red triangular tip. Unlike the original model, the correctors placed on the case body can now be found under the four lugs of the 40mm-wide case. This invention has been patented by Blancpain and is used to correct all the calendar functions at a press of a button, without having to use a stylus. The GMT function and the time are also reset very simply using the crown.

blancpain villeret quantieme complet gmt with casebackThe Quantième Complet GMT is driven by an automatic movement with a silicon spiral, the calibre 67A5, providing 72 hours of power reserve.

Two versions are available, one made of steel, the other of red gold. They are combined with a dial coloured white or opal, respectively. Above the dial move the openwork leaf-shaped hands, together with indices matching the case colour. Whatever your preference, the models come with a strap made of alligator leather or metal.

Price on request blancpain.com

By Dan Diaconu