ELEGANCE OF A (VERY) GREAT CLASSIC

Created in 1978 by the talented designer Henry d’Origny, the iconic Arceau is available in several different sizes, including two large models, one powered by a calibre made by Hermès and the second with a quartz movement.

The unchallenged queen of the Hermès watch collections since the late 1970s, the Arceau watch, created by the Parisian firm’s star designer Henry d’Origny, is one of the rare timepieces that can be instantly recognised on the wrist. The case with its asymmetrical lugs, recalling the world of horse-riding – Hermès was originally a saddle-maker – and the shapes depicting a galloping horse, gently transmitting a sensation of speed, are the Arceau watch’s two main aesthetic features. The watch is also like a creative white canvas for Hermès, with a whole host of different versions, including women’s models or watches designed to celebrate the rare arts and crafts professions chosen by the brand each year for the greater enjoyment of its many fans.

In this early summer, the Parisian company is providing its customers with two new timepieces of a larger size, and both available with a 40mm-wide steel case: the Arceau Très Grand Modèle. While one tenderly evokes awakening nature with its light brown colour, the second is clothed in a dark blue coat like the night.

The hazelnut version of the Arceau Très Grand Modèle watch plays on its different materials. The dial’s central disc features a vertical herringbone and guilloché pattern where the two leaf-shaped hour and minute hands are set, while the embossed hour rim is placed on a sunburst ring. The minute track is made up of tiny dots running round the chapter ring, and the date appears in an open window at 6 o’clock. The different functions are driven by the calibre H1837, a self-winding movement made by Hermès and providing 50 hours of power reserve.

The version with the blue lacquered and sunburst dial has the same elements (hours and minutes at the centre, date at 6 o’clock), but is powered by a Swiss-made quartz mechanism.

Price: 5,000 CHF (self-winding model) – 3,050 CHF (quartz model) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

THE CHARM OF BLACK

Overflowing with elegance and simplicity, the star of the Hermès watch collection has been dressed in black to celebrate its 26th anniversary, and also marks a first for the Parisian luxury firm: the use of DLC to decorate the watch case.

In 1991 – 26 years ago now – a future icon was born: the famous “square in a rectangle” designed by Henri d’Origny. Named Cape Cod in homage to his wife’s holiday destination, the peninsula on the east coast of the United States, this Hermès watch quickly won over an international clientele, attracted by its unusual shape and simple elegance. Until now the Cape Cod has always been dressed in steel, but has provisionally set aside its silvery garments in favour of black.

This is the first time the Parisian firm has used a coating like DLC (Diamond-Like Carbon, an amorphous carbon that is widely employed in watchmaking), a scratch-resistant material that can stand up to wear. Alongside its technical properties, DLC has the advantage of totally changing the aesthetic appearance of a watch. This is true of the Cape Cod Shadow model, which has a more modern look because of the use of this material but without drowning out its identity or affecting its natural grace.

The square case of the Cape Code Shadow is like an optical illusion, with rounded, tubular lugs forming a rectangle, and measuring 29x29mm. The steel body coated with a layer of matt black DLC houses a quartz moment driving the hours and the minutes.

Matching the watch case, the matt black face of this Hermès watch has been delicately sanded, producing a surface made up of thousands of tiny grains. The dial contains an hour rim featuring rhodium curved Arabic numerals. Two straight hands, coated with ruthenium and highlighted with a line of luminescent material, display the hours and the minutes in the centre.

The Cape Cod Shadow is worn on the wrist with a single or double strap made of black Barenia calf’s leather, polished with red on the edges and doubled with gold leather, and all rounded off by an ardillon steel buckle and black DLC.

Price: 3,750 CHF (single strap) 3,900 CHF (double strap) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

All the strength of mechanical memory

Seen as one of the finest watch complications, the perpetual calendar is now part of the Slim collection by Hermès.

It’s been two years now since Hermès released its Slim model, a simple and elegant classic watch with a face displaying the famous, almost ethereal type and figures designed by Philippe Apeloig. Its simplicity meant it could serve as a creative canvas for such artistic elements as the champlevé enamelwork graphic designs (Slim Perspective Cavalière) or the miniature painting on mother-of-pearl (Slim Mille Fleurs du Mexique), and for classic techniques like on the Slim Email Grand Feu. Today, Hermès is introducing a prestigious complication to this collection with the creation of the Slim Quantième Perpétuel Platine model.

To make this piece, Hermès has chosen platinum, a noble and resistant material. The sapphire crystal background on the 39.5mm case reveals its mechanical heart, the H1950 calibre, together with an Agenhor module. This self-winding movement, which runs at 21,600 alterations an hour (3Hz) and provides 42 hours of power reserve, drives a wide range of functions and displays: hours and minutes, perpetual date, second time zone, moon phase and day/night indicator.

Made up of different levels, the blue face is encircled by a sunburst scale housing a silver hour rim. The centre, with stick-shaped hands for the hours and minutes, as well as four counters, is decorated with a circular guilloche pattern. Slightly bigger than the other dials, and with a red hand, the second time zone is set at 6 o’clock. The perpetual calendar is shared by two sub-dials: the months and the position in the leap-year cycle are grouped together at 9 o’clock, while the date is shown by a hand at 12 o’clock. Housed in an open, crescent-shaped display, the moon phase is represented by a white mother-of-pearl disc set against a blue aventurine background.

The Slim Quantième Perpétuel Platine by Hermès features an abyss blue alligator strap matching the ocean-blue tint on the dial.

Price: 38,000 CHF hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

HERMES, THE RAINBOW MAKER

The Paris brand has designed a bespoke wardrobe for the 25^th anniversary of its Cape Cod whose dial glitters with diamonds and magical gems.

In 1991 on the request of Hermès President Jean-Louis Dumas (1938-2010), the brand’s illustrator since 1958 and brains behind the Arceau (1978) and Clipper (1981) did a quick pencil sketch of a model that would become an icon. The watch, inspired by the famous Hermès Chaîne d’Ancre link, should have been square but Henry d’Origny designed a rectangle around a square. It was called Cape Cod in tribute to holidays on the American peninsula. At the time, the Belgian designer Martin Margiela styled Hermès’ ready-to-wear and in 1998 gave it extra leather to seal its fate as a legend: the double strap.

The Cape Cod’s simple, classic and stylish look has appealed for 25 years and it’s celebrating its anniversary by splashing its dial and strap with colours that are so Hermès.

Gleaming white mother-of-pearl, midnight black onyx and deep blue lapis-lazuli are three natural mineral elements chosen to adorn the dial on the paved steel Cape Cod GM (29x29mm) each treating the owner to their own virtues and goodness. An interchangeable single or double strap in smooth ultraviolet, sapphire or black alligator adds the finishing touch to this stylish trio.

The dials on the steel Cape Cod PM (23x23mm) may be classic opalescent silver but the splash of colour brings the strap to life. Be it single or double, calfskin (Barenia or smooth) or alligator, it’s definitely dazzling. The deliciously stylish hues are a sight for sore eyes. Their names ooze poetry and bring to mind tenderness, wonder and nature: orange, lime, iris, peacock, ember, raspberry.

The Cape Code dial bears the hours and minutes with two silver hands fuelled by a quartz movement.

Price: 2550 CHF (steel single strap PM) to 9700 CHF (onyx or lapis-lazuli GM) hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

Introducing the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Email Grand Feu  

The Slim d’Hermès was unveiled in 2015 and has been a great success, especially among those who love minimalist timepieces and simple watchmaking. Its power of seduction lies in the uncrowded dial, slender font by designer Philippe Apeloig and slim case.

To coincide with Baselworld 2016, Hermès has put a more classical and “fine watch” spin on the model. The Parisian brand has coated the low-key dial in Grand Feu enamel for a velvety, intense and shiny white effect on three levels (hour ring, minute display and small seconds at 6). The features are all in black enamel, from the Arabic hour numerals and minute track to the seconds.

Three baton-shape rose gold hands glide over the enamel surface to track the central hours, minutes and seconds. They are brought to life by the super-slim H1950 calibre in the 39.5mm rose gold case with a 42-hour power reserve.

Price: 21,000 CHF hermes.com

By Sharmila Bertin

If the fabulous Frida Kahlo (1907-1954) was still alive, she’d certainly have loved the Slim d’Hermès Mille Fleurs du Mexique. The miniature artwork on this colourful dial depicts some of the cultural and folklore symbols so dear to the painter which she put into her paintings and outfits. Inspired by the pattern on the silk Hermès scarf designed by graphic artist Laetitia Bianchi, this is a celebration of the art of miniature paintings on mother-of-pearl. Once the design has been transferred onto the shimmering disc, the artisan adorns it with twenty layers of colour before firing it at 90°C. Lush nature in the form of flowers, foliage and feathers takes over the dial; the silver hour and minute hands are understated in the centre and brought to life by the ultra-slim H1950 calibre. The self-winding movement fuels a 42-hour power reserve from inside the 39.5mm white gold case. Price upon request. Sharmila Bertin
hermes.com

The building at 24 Rue du Faubourg Saint Honoré in Paris has been home to Hermès since 1879. Founded in 1837 by Thierry Hermès (1801-1878), the saddlery brand was moved here by his son, Charles-Emile (1831-1876). The iconic address, affectionately abbreviated to “Faubourg”, has quite literally become synonymous with the Parisian brand. But Faubourg is also the name of a collection of miniature timepieces which this diamond watch comes from. The fascinating and hypnotic Faubourg Joaillerie has a total of 652 diamonds which shine like stars. Its little white gold 16.3mm case is covered in 152 jewels. The strap gleams with 388 diamonds whilst 122 dazzle in concentric circles on the dial. Two facetted rhodium-plated little hands in the centre track the hours and minutes fuelled by a quartz movement. Price: 75’000 CHF. Sharmila Bertin
hermès.com

Most so-called ornamental gemstones have beneficial qualities for body and soul. These little healers protect from illness, ease sadness and fear, encourage meditation and bring harmony. Deep blue lapis lazuli (also known as the pharaoh’s stone), midnight black onyx and intense emerald green malachite adorn the dial of the Faubourg, the mini-watch oozing charm designed by Hermès. Time is understated: four small diamonds at the cardinal points act as markers and two baton-shape mini hands in white or rose gold track the hours and minutes. The time functions are brought to life by a Swiss-made quartz movement inside the 15.5mm mini-case. This tiny timepiece, whose bezel can be paved with 44 diamonds, comes in white or rose gold and wraps around the wrist with a link or black Barenia calfskin strap. Price: 8,750 CHF – 15,800 CHF. Sharmila Bertin
hermes.com

In a world teeming with large pieces, Hermès surprised us all in 2014 by turning the trend on its head and unveiling a new collection of miniature watches. Named after the street on which the Parisian brand has long stood, Faubourg is a delicate, slim, understated and fabulously feminine little timepiece. This year it comes with a 19.55mm steel or rose gold case perfectly paired with a calfskin or alligator strap. The leather is cut from a single piece and available in a range of colours from classic (deep black) to eye-popping (agate red). The pin buckle secures the strap to the wrist. The simple time display on the white lacquer dial is brought to life by a quartz movement. Two silver or gold baton-shape hour and minute hands swing through time beneath the dazzling gaze of a diamond at 12 o’ clock and three hour markers. Price: 2,300 CHF (steel and calfskin) – 7,150 CHF (rose gold and alligator). Sharmila Bertin
hermes.com

Cape Cod is a long and pretty peninsula surrounded by the Atlantic Ocean. It is a 3382km² strip of land, dunes and beaches swept by the wind and whipped by the sea swell on the East Coast of America. But that’s not all. Cape Cod is also the name of a watch collection by Hermès and this large model (TGM) is part of it. Its 33x33mm steel case (excluding lugs) is inspired by the Parisian brand’s famous Chaîne d’Ancre toggle bracelet. It houses the self-winding H1912 calibre which brings to life the time and date functions alongside a 50-hour power reserve. The off-white dial features an hour rim and black minute track echoing the square shape of the case. Rhodium-plated Arabic numerals break up the straight lines with their curves. Three rhodium-plated hands in the centre track the hours, minutes and seconds whilst the date display lies at 6 o’ clock. Price: 5,200 CHF