WHEN BRONZE ARRIVED IN HAMBURG  

A successful gamble for Montblanc, introducing bronze into their watch collections with two models powered by self-winding movements

The 1858 collection is a homage to the famous Minerva factory established in Villeret, in the Bernese Jura, best known for its technical mastery of chronometry and its chronographs and sports timers. The watchmaking workshop, established in 1858 (the year that gives the collection its name) by the Robert family, remained independent for a long time before being bought by the Richemont group and linked to Montblanc since 2007 – Montblanc, whose watchmaking activities officially started in Le Locle in 1997. During this year, two new pieces were added to the catalogue of the Hamburg brand: 1858 Automatic Dual Time and 1858 Automatic.

Their undeniably retro look is accentuated by the appearance of bronze – a first in the Montblanc collections – on the fixed bezel and the movement crown and setting. This metal with its golden-brown glow is made from an alloy of several metals: a large proportion of copper (between 60 and 90%) combined with a substantial quantity of tin and aluminium, lead, and other ferrous metals. To embellish these two models, Montblanc has used a particular alloy that enables them to control the sulfidation of the bronze and create a uniform patina. The body of the 44mm-diameter case of both the 1858 Automatic Dual Time and the 1858 Automatic is made of steel.

The 1858 Automatic Dual Time version is powered by the MB 29.19 calibre, a self-winding movement that runs the time-keeping, second time zone and the date functions, while providing a 42-hour power reserve. This watch, principally designed for travellers, has three large silver cathedral-style hands in the centre of its black dial that are rimmed with beige Super-LumiNova®. One of them is skeletonized, and shows the time at home. So as not to overload the dial, the seconds are displayed off-centre in a counter placed at the 6 o’clock position, coupled with a date window.

In the 1858 Automatic model, its movement – the automatic MB 24.16 calibre – powers the essential time-keeping features, that is the hours and minutes shown by two large hands that lie above the hour marker which is composed of luminous Arabic numerals.

These two watches are supplied with a leather strap in nut-brown calf-skin with creamy-white top-stitching by the lugs and a steel buckle.

Price: 4,990 EUR (Automatic Dual Time) – 3,490 EUR (Automatic)

By Sharmila Bertin

BRONZE AND CHAMPAGNE: A SPARKLING MARRIAGE

With this limited edition, the Hamburg-based company pays a triple homage: to its 110th anniversary, the 158th anniversary of Minerva and the military watches of the 1930s.

The history of the Minerva workshop is without doubt one of the finest stories in contemporary watchmaking. Founded in 1858 in Villeret in Bernese Jura, the workshop, specialised in timekeeping, was only renamed Minerva in 1929, before becoming part of the Richemont group in 2006 and being allocated to Montblanc in 2007. The brand with the white star, which began to make watches in 1997, was inspired by Minerva’s famous 19/9CH calibre with the monopusher chronograph feature, created in the 1920s, and by the design of the military watches made at the Villeret plant in the 1930s, to produce the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition model. And to highlight the vintage spirit of this special timepiece, available in 100 pieces, Montblanc has adorned it with bronze armour.

In fact, for the first time in the Hamburg firm’s history, bronze – an alloy of copper (60 to 90%), pewter and other metals (aluminium, lead, etc.) – with its golden-brown reflections has made its appearance to dress the 44mm-diameter case. Resulting from a special alloy, its patina has been developed, controlled and unified over time. To limit the risk of skin allergies, the case back of the 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition is sealed with a bronze-tinted titanium ring to reveal the sublime works powering the watch. The manual wind MB M.1629 calibre drives the hour and chronograph functions while providing 50 hours of power reserve.

Another detail giving this watch a retro look is the dial. With a champagne colour, golden tints and a sunbeam finish, it hosts at its centre two large copper cathedral-type hands coated in sand-coloured Super-LumiNova®. The hours and minutes are embodied in beige, luminescent Arabic figures, while a precise minute track is traced in black. A “chemin de fer” tachymeter scale is placed towards the chapter ring. Two counters, at 9 and 3 o’clock, show the second and minute timers respectively, while in the centre the seconds are shown with a red-tipped second hand.

The 1858 Chronograph Tachymeter Limited Edition comes with a hazelnut-coloured alligator strap with ecru white stitching, designed in the Florentine leather workshops of Montblanc.

Price: 27,500 EUR

By Sharmila Bertin

SYMBOLIZING PERFORMANCE

This is the first time that the urban chic TimeWalker collection has been given a complication designed and patented by Montblanc: the ExoTourbillon.

The TimeWalker oozes style and performance with its ExoTourbillon, single pusher chronograph and hi-tech materials.

The collection is already famous for its avant-garde style and this TimeWalker is making a statement with its racy and vibrant looks. It’s innovative to boot as the three parts on its 44mm case are an expert blend of cutting-edge materials: brushed titanium on the openwork body, compact black carbon fibre on the container and black DLC-coated titanium rimmed by a red seal on the bezel. The design gives the watch lightness and weight.

But this isn’t style over substance. Montblanc has already put the famous ExoTourbillon into its Heritage Chronométrie, Villeret, 4810 and Bohème collections and now it’s joined the TimeWalker. The system designed and patented by Montblanc involves placing the screw-down balance wheel outside the tourbillon cage (hence the Greek term exo). The tourbillon is smaller than standard ones and isn’t affected by the weight of the balance wheel so it requires 30% less energy. A single pusher triggers the chronograph function fuelled by a column wheel and vertical gear.

The self-winding MB R230 calibre brings the functions to life and its double barrel fuels the 50-hour power reserve among other features.

The dial is split in two and plays on volume. The bottom is occupied by the ExoTourbillon and its double arrow bridge (a nod to the 158 year old Minerva factory that Montblanc took over in 2007) in vertically brushed silver metal. The larger top is home to the semi-circular chronograph seconds and minute counters. The hours and minutes appear off-centre at 12 alongside a date display with a hand.

Price: 39,000 CHF

By Sharmila Bertin

The perfect pairing of jewellery and fine watchmaking celebrated by Montblanc

The feminine and dazzling Bohème accessorises its dial with an ExoTourbillon and a skilful play on materials and colours

If you still think that complications are just for men then get with the programme: it’s 2016. Women can do whatever they want! Montblanc’s design means ladies no longer have to choose between technique and aesthetic with a stylish bejewelled piece oozing the Hamburg brand’s prestigious and innovative expertise. The name in itself brings to mind a sense of freedom: Bohème ExoTourbillon Slim Jewellery.

The 38mm watch looks fabulous in its rose gold gown trimmed with diamonds from the bezel to the lugs. The in-house self-winding MB M29.24 calibre fuels a 48-hour power reserve.

Its shimmering white mother-of-pearl dial is elevated by a central disc paved with 144 diamonds and bears two gold leaf-shape hands that glide along the floral Arabic numerals and pearlescent minute track. But the star of the show performs at 6: the famous ExoTourbillon. Montblanc’s patented innovation twirls to its heart’s content and its red arrow tracks the seconds.

The Bohème ExoTourbillon Slim Jewellery is bang on trend and its interchangeable strap means it can match any outfit. You don’t need any tools; just press a subtle button and detach the calfskin straps. The five fashionable colours are a feast for the eyes: cappuccino (melt-in-the-middle caramel), apricot orange, poppy red, island blue and turquoise.

Price upon request

By Sharmila Bertin

The story of Montblanc is among the most fascinating, especially if you’re a fountain pen enthusiast like me. It began in 1906, 110 years ago, when an engineer, banker and specialist stationery salesman from Hamburg and Berlin set sail to the USA. After the trio’s American adventure, a fountain pen with a built-in ink well was born and revolutionised writing. Four years on and the company was named Montblanc in tribute to the three founders’ demanding quality standards and the highest peak in Europe at 4810m.

Cross oceans, climb mont Blanc

Without the ferry boom in the early 20^th century following innovations such as the steam engine and steel hulls, transatlantic boat journeys wouldn’t exist, Hamburg wouldn’t have become a major port city and our three German entrepreneurs wouldn’t have been able to visit the US. The 4810 collection, launched in 2006 but with fresh technical and design features in 2016, is like a multiple celebration. It honours not only the memory of the Hamburg brand’s founders but also the golden age of ferries, 110 years of German engineering and Europe’s summit.

Make a birthday wish, celebrate life

The exclusive limited edition timepieces have been launched to celebrate the 110^th anniversary including one available in three versions. The self-winding trio (two wristwatches and one pocket watch) embody Montblanc’s technical skills thanks mainly to Minerva’s experience.

In terms of design, the 4810 collection has a new dial which now bears the German brand’s logo on most models, has Roman numerals on its hour rim and a more streamlined case and lugs.

By Sharmila Bertin

Introducing the Montblanc 4810 Day-Date

A star is born: the 4810 collection by Montblanc celebrating the Hamburg brand’s 110^th anniversary. This classic watch collection is inspired by the golden age of transatlantic seafaring which enabled Montblanc’s future founders to reach the US in 1906 before creating their famous fountain pen. One piece stands out from the crowd for its beauty and function: 4810 Day-Date.

The self-winding MB 24.18 calibre inside the 40.5mm steel case powers not only the hours, minutes and seconds but also the day, date and 42-hour power reserve.

The Montblanc emblem appears on the silver white 4810 Day-Date dial to form a series of concentric and wavy stars. The day stands in a display sweeping from 11 to 1 whilst the date lies at 3. Two gold hands and a blue central seconds hand tell the time.

Price: 2,845 CHF

By Sharmila Bertin

Introducing the Montblanc TimeWalker Pythagore UltraLight Concept

Lin Dan, whom his fans know as “Super Dan”, is a Chinese professional badminton player with an impressive list of awards: 3 consecutive world championship titles and an Olympic gold medal. He’s been a Montblanc ambassador since 2014 and the brand has paid tribute to him with the TimeWalker Pythagore UltraLight Concept.

The 40mm case is surprisingly light (less than 15g) having been stripped back to basics with an ITR²® and Kevlar®/carbon case, back and crown and DLC titanium lugs. Its titanium openwork dial has two black aluminium skeleton dauphine-shape hands which glide over the black markers and Arabic number 12 to track the hours and minutes. The seconds count down at 6 o’clock while 5 stars for each of Lin Dan’s titles appear 8 o’clock.

The functions are brought to life by the manual wind MB M62.38 calibre (50-hour power reserve).

Price upon request

By Sharmila Bertin

MONTBLANC – Heritage Chronométrie Twincounter Date

Unveiled at the 2016 SIHH, the Heritage Chronométrie Twincounter Date is based on the twin-counter chronographs designed in the 1950s by Minerva, the famous manufacturer founded in Villeret in 1858 and taken over by Montblanc in 2007.

A slim bezel runs around the silver white sunray dial displaying two perfectly central secondary dials with azure hearts or rims and small blue hands. The small seconds count down at 9 whilst the date and hand appear at 3. They straddle gold leaf-shape hour and minute hands which glide over a rose gold hour rim with facetted markers, two Arabic numerals (6 and 12) and a black minute track.

The functions are fuelled by the MB24.23 calibre in the 40mm steel case that’s 9.85mm thick.

Price: 2,850 €

By Sharmila Bertin

The start of the 20^th century marked a turning point in human history in terms of technical innovation and economic growth. During this very time, the company that was to be Montblanc was founded in the golden age of ferries (1897-1914) in which Germany played a major role. The Hamburg brand has taken inspiration from the number 4810 – altitude of Mont Blanc – to design a collection including the 4810 ExoTourbillon Slim. Its silver white dial is engraved with concentric engine-turning to depict Montblanc’s curvy star. Two central dauphine-shape luminescent gold hands glide over the Roman numerals on the partial hour rim. A semi-circle adorned with Côtes de Genève at the bottom of the dial reveals the ExoTourbillon seconds brought to life by the self-winding MB 29.21 calibre housed in the 42mm rose gold case. Price: 34,500 EUR. Sharmila Bertin
montblanc.com

The recipe seems simple. Take large Arabic numerals. Mix with wide “cathedral” hands. Coat everything in beige Super-LumiNova® and dress on a black dial. No extra garnish required. Put the assembled components in a large case and serve the archetype for an aviator watch. Easy? It may be but, like any recipe, it all depends on the chef, his knowledge and personal touch. In this case, Montblanc has a feast for the eyes. The Montblanc 1858 Small Second blends all the ingredients to ensure readability at any time, be it day or night, and the added luxury of an elegant small seconds function at 6 o’ clock. The slim bezel frees up the dial so the information has lots of space. The 44mm steel case has a surprise core: the manual wind BM 23.03 movement. The watch comes with a choice of a calfskin or steel strap. Price: 2,990 CHF leather strap, 3,290 CHF Milanese mesh strap. Dan Diaconu
montblanc.com